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I did not drop the valve body when I swapped mine. The large nut (blue one in the pic) has to be unscrewed, iirc.
It's been a couple years since I've done this. I'll see if I can find the thread where I explained what I did...
Did you remove the press pin (don't know the exact name). Once that is removed you can start moving it outwards. You may need some leverage is you removed the press pin and it is still stuck. Just don't put anything on the valvebody for leverage.
1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
sigpic
Pull the roll pin, undo the nut, the lever comes right out. Don't need to mess with the valve body. If you have already, you will need new valve body gaskets and an inch-pound torque wrench to properly re-install it. It absolutely must be torqued correctly with new gaskets or its not going to work right.
The levers are different depending on application. Column shift rod vs column shift cable do not interchange, and floor shift doesn't fit either. You need one from something with the same type linkage you already have.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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