Keeping Valvetrain Parts in Order/Out of Engine Storage

[nfldfordltd]

As the title suggests, do any of ye mangs have any tips or tricks for keeping valvetrain parts (rockers, pushrods and lifters) in order when doing an engine rebuild?
I'm fishing for ideas to keep each of my valvetrain 'sets' together and in order while the engine is apart. Ideally, I'd like to come up with a leakproof container with individual compartments that allow for the soaking of each 'set' in oil as it may be a while before reassembly takes place. Likely two or three months. I was thinking cutting the tops off of 16 quart oil bottles and labeling them according to cylinder number, intake/exhaust, etc then putting them into a crate of sorts with a top to keep the dirt out.

[sly]

cardboard boxes... lots of them... poke the parts into the cardboard... or mount them to the cardboard. Place in larger box for storage.

[nfldfordltd]

cardboard boxes... lots of them... poke the parts into the cardboard... or mount them to the cardboard. Place in larger box for storage.

One teeny-tiny problem with that: I wanted to keep them submerged in motor oil to prevent rusting/seizing. I see what you mean though, and if it was only for a few hours or even a few days, that's what I'd do. But I'm looking at possibly having it apart for up to three months.

[VicCrownVic]

I have a couple of Flambeau Tuff Tainers (5007-1) that I found in the fishing section at Walmart or something. I use them for keeping track of parts when working stuff like computers. A few of those may or may not work for what you want to do. Those are supposed to be made with some special stuff to keep fishing lures/hooks and stuff from rusting, but I'd still use oil like you were planning.
https://www.flambeaucases.com/index....e/details/5007

Something similar can probably be found in a craft/hobby store or section of a store.

Not exactly leak proof ideas but might be worth considering.

[gadget73]

Honestly with roller lifters, it doesn't particularly matter. Me personally, I'd pitch all of the stock stuff in my scrap bin and buy better parts for re-assembly.

If you really want to keep it all separated, find someone who consumes a lot of jelly or food that comes in suitable size jars and have them save you the jars and lids.

[sly]

Also, no need to submerge stuff. They don't rust when the car just sits for 3 weeks. as long as you don't clean anything, a casual coat of some sticky lube will work a treat. Besides, you're either going to have to label each part with a wax pencil or tag and bag them to keep them all sorted without the cardboard idea.

[VicCrownVic]

There's another idea, that sly mentioned.
Ziploc bags for each part or set of parts. Sharpie on the outside for a label. Place all the bags in a tote. Probably the cheapest way to go.

Although, gadget has a good point. Why not get new parts while you're in there so you (theoretically) don't have to go back in anytime in the near future?

[nfldfordltd]

Due to my budget for this build, I have to re-use as many parts as possible, especially on the top end. I will be buying a master rebuild kit and doing all the bottom end new, in the hopes that the engine can stay in the car for a long time after it's built and installed. I'm anticipating future top-end work as the plan is to build the bottom all new, and convert to HO with stock Mustang/Mark VII parts first and get it running well. Then, later on down the road upgrade to new/improved valvetrain, heads, MAF, etc. Those things I can do with the engine in the car.
I was also thinking about submerging parts not only for soaking in oil, but also for the purposes of cleaning everything prior to reassembly. The donor engine isn't sparkly clean from what I've seen in the valley after pulling the intake. To be honest, I was expecting sludge given the engine is a truck piece that lived its life in a place with a lot of stop-and-go, short runs and extreme temperatures (mostly cold).
The pushrods have a respectable layer of sludge and everything's going to need to soak well to get it all clean prior to inspection. The stripped block and heads will be scrubbed clean as it will be painted prior to installation into the car.
Dammit I need to take more pictures.

[knucklehead0202]

Bear in mind these things are covered in oil when they come out of the motor. Wrap them in newspaper. If you're really dead-set on keeping them sealed and/or submerged, get some of the cheapass Tupperware-type stuff available everywhere. Glad or whatever brand makes a myriad of sizes from small to large. Package them up, label, and you're dialed in. Unless you're sure they are low-mileage or new, i'd definitely replace the roller lifters. It's no fun when those eat shit, you'll be doing the bottom end again in short order if you lunch a lifter.

[gadget73]

Don't change the heads with the motor in the car. Trust me on this. It can be done, but it majorly sucks. You get to realizing exactly how heavy they are and how awkward it is to get them in and out once its too late to bail on the project. If you're going to upgrade the heads, do it while the motor is out. Doing fiddly crap under the hood is just annoying.

[nfldfordltd]

Don't change the heads with the motor in the car. Trust me on this. It can be done, but it majorly sucks. You get to realizing exactly how heavy they are and how awkward it is to get them in and out once its too late to bail on the project. If you're going to upgrade the heads, do it while the motor is out. Doing fiddly crap under the hood is just annoying.

I'll lift them individually with my hoist if I have to
I know what you're saying about how much easier everything is to work on when it's out of the car. Cross that bridge when I come to it I guess. I was looking at new lifter sets after, and yeah, that's not in the budget this year.