Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Engine cleaning solvents

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Engine cleaning solvents

    I have had the engine block back from the machine shop for the last 3 weeks. Tomorrow I am starting to take measurements to make sure everything is within spec. What is a good cleaner to clean the crank, block, and pistons? I was thinking brake parts cleaner but I think it may rust with that. Any suggestions?
    1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
    Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
    Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
    sigpic

    #2
    acetone does a nice job to remove all oil. It will rust if you leave it dry though. Measure, then re-oil to keep it from rusting. Pistons are aluminum, they won't rust.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
      acetone does a nice job to remove all oil. It will rust if you leave it dry though. Measure, then re-oil to keep it from rusting. Pistons are aluminum, they won't rust.
      Ok. Thanks. I would clean the bore out, measure, and then apply oil. About how long would I have before it starts to rust? I would Use a lint free cloth to clean the bore with acetone and then dry.
      1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
      Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
      Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        ..Pistons are aluminum, they won't rust.
        Actually, they do rust. That's why bare aluminum stuff usually comes heavily oiled. Once the oil is removed they rust/oxidize almost immediately, just the naked eye can't see it. Probably doesn't matter with engines but it sure does in the paint/pretreatment business.
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

        Comment


          #5
          If you find orange iron oxide on aluminum, you've got deeper problems. Yes, it does oxidize but it doesn't turn rusty orange like an iron block will.


          How long it takes depends on humidity. The wetter it is, the faster it'll happen. I wouldn't leave it more than a few hours though. Get your measurements and oil it again.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            I just use gasoline or kerosene. Cheap and effective.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              If you find orange iron oxide on aluminum, you've got deeper problems. Yes, it does oxidize but it doesn't turn rusty orange like an iron block will.


              How long it takes depends on humidity. The wetter it is, the faster it'll happen. I wouldn't leave it more than a few hours though. Get your measurements and oil it again.
              Ok. That'll be the plan for today.
              1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
              Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
              Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
                Actually, they do rust. That's why bare aluminum stuff usually comes heavily oiled. Once the oil is removed they rust/oxidize almost immediately, just the naked eye can't see it. Probably doesn't matter with engines but it sure does in the paint/pretreatment business.
                I though they would corrode? Either way I have applied a coat of pb blaster to them once a week.
                1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
                Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
                Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  Wouldn't gas leave a residue?
                  1992 Mercury Grand Marquis.
                  Upgrades: Big Brake Upgrade, digital dash, Custom ignition Switch system, sequential tail lights, Teflon Fuel lines, LED interior lights, rear end rebuild with limited slip.
                  Future upgrades: 5.0 swap, 4r70w swap, aluminum driveshaft.
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by pivichot View Post
                    Wouldn't gas leave a residue?
                    Depends what you are trying to do. It's great for removing oil and grease from parts. If you are gonna paint it after should probably wipe it with paint thinner or something else before hand.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by pivichot View Post
                      I though they would corrode? Either way I have applied a coat of pb blaster to them once a week.
                      You mean, 'wouldn't?' Bare, clean aluminum won't look rusty or even end up with that red "haze" that iron based stuff ends up with in short order. It can get scabby & blistery like iron based stuff but that takes a long time. Here in the pretreatment business aluminum is getting to be more common on cars but presents new challenges when trying to pretreat it before it goes into the paint shop. The scientists around here say a micro film of corrosion begins to develop the minute grease/protective layer is removed, this creates "mapping" issues with the pretreatment & ecoat that if left behind will become paint defects.
                      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X