So at some point I copied a link off here for a direct-fit radiator from radiator express. I ordered it, it arrived quickly, and is completely wrong for my car. Now their website is down too, lol. Anyhow, has anyone else bought one of these and did it fit? Does anyone have a source for a good aluminum radiator for these cars? I hate plastic tank shit and would like something with a bit more capacity that'll give me room to grow. Help!
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Spectra makes an all-metal radiator, it's brass/copper setup, two-core, a fat basterd that appears well put together. Cost is typically under $250 with tax from the Zone, part # CU552 (or A552), made in China of course, but it's got lifetime warranty and being locally-sourced it's easy to return if something is wrong. "Mine" is going in a Mk6 Lincoln, but it cross-references as a direct-fit for 5.8 cop cars as well. Do yourself a favor and install new quick-connect fittings for the transmission lines at the same time, provided your car uses those of course (some do, some do not) - part # for those would be 800-608 by Dorman, should be under $15 for the pair.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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And I plan on sticking an F150 radiator in mine for better towing..
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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I've been using the all-brass one from Autozone for several years with no problems. I've towed with it well beyond reasonable capacity and it doesn't overheat even dragging 4500 lbs in the mountains with the AC on and 4 people in the car. Its probably the same one from Carquest, only so many people actually make radiators. Its the one specified for an 85 Vic with a 351. Need the upper hose for that application and the longer mount, but thats pretty much SOP with anything that isn't the weenie one core jobber.
All things considered, the single aluminum core probably does have comparable heat shed capabilities to an all brass 2 core one. They fail at the tanks though, which is why they suck.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostAll things considered, the single aluminum core probably does have comparable heat shed capabilities to an all brass 2 core one.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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Yeah I just don't want a half-plastic half-aluminum piece of shit. Copper-brass is good, but aluminum has it's merits as well. Either way, i'd like an all-metal job and can likely get the custom-job hand-built and installed for the same price as something that'll be a dickache for me to install.
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I routinely tow 5k#+ with a stock replacement rad and have never had a problem even up steep grades in 90
+ degree weather.
I seriously wonder what you guys do to your cars that you need more.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP
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My 88 used to routinely warm up to 220ish and up to 235 once climbing mountains and towing nothing on a stock replacement radiator. Then I replaced the fan clutch and haven't had a problem since. It was fine on relatively flat ground but anything more than a mile up a grade that required direct drive and it would heat.1990 Country Squire - under restoration
1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater
GMN Box Panther History
Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
Box Panther Production Numbers
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I need a new fan clutch/e-fan replacement.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Originally posted by dmccaig View PostDear Panthers,
I've a 3 cell and dual electric fans and with a/c going full at 82 mph /100 degree on West Texas roads temp hangs at 220.
Donald
Derek, the e-fan of choice for the budget/junkyard swaps comes off a Contour. Don't remember what model years, but we do have a thread on it somewhere.
Also I'll 2nd Tiggie's experience regarding the fan clutch. Interestingly enough some of the ones sold at the Zone are actually US-made - well some are Chinese too, it seems like a 50/50 which one you'll get given they're the same part number. But if one insists on supporting our own economy (and I suggest we all do so), and time or initial cost is not a factor, one could order two or three clutches till they get a US-made one, and then return the others - I'm yet to meet a parts store employee who wouldn't understand (and likely approve) the reasoning for these shenanigans.The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.
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