I've tried everything BUT wedging the screwdriver in the starter gear, but I don't know where to look to find it. I tried threading 2 bolts into the balancer, and with a prybar holding it while i tried to get the bolts out, but I was about to bend/break the bolts off. does anyone have pictures of where I get to the starter gear?
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crank bolt is REALLY stuck on
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crank bolt is REALLY stuck on
1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.Tags: None
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i don't own a air wrench. Maybe I need to get a job and buy one.1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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Put the socket on the bolt and use a long cheater bar (I use the handle of my floor jack). Slide the cheater bar over the handle of the wratchet or breaker bar and rest it on your fender or an accessory bracket. Disconnect your ignition coil wire to the distributor and BUMP the motor. That's what I do every time and it works every time with no problems.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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Originally posted by FreshmeatPut the socket on the bolt and use a long cheater bar (I use the handle of my floor jack). Slide the cheater bar over the handle of the wratchet or breaker bar and rest it on your fender or an accessory bracket. Disconnect your ignition coil wire to the distributor and BUMP the motor. That's what I do every time and it works every time with no problems.
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Originally posted by Blaze86VicWatch out there now. If it's really stuck you will easily break the ratchet. Use a breaker bar or a socket wrench for this method (not a ratcheting type).
I use a breaker bar (the tool that doesn't ratchet at all), personally, but if you don't have that available, I'm almost positive a 1/2" drive would do the trick- especially if you hit it with some PB or Aerokroil or something.2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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ok I do have a huge ass breaker bar. I got the 15/16'' socket but its too big, anybody know the right size?? and i cant bump my motor because it looks like this1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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Don't push steady on it. You're going to need to do a quick application of force.
The ring gear you can access either by pulling the starter, or the aluminum plate that goes around the bottom of the bellhousing. usually its held in with like 2 or 3 small bolts, and you might need to loosen the large lower bolts on the transmission ti get it free. Starter is quite likely easier to remove but if you plan to service the tranny (and you probably should at some point here) the dust cover needs to come off to drain the converter.
15/16 should be it. Thats what my car uses at any rate. Should all be the same.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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HF air compressor = $100
wrench and air line/accy's = $40-50?
Unfrozen crank bolt = priceless
RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro
'80 Town Coupé
'84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
'16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4
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Originally posted by phayzer5HF air compressor = $100
wrench and air line/accy's = $40-50?
Unfrozen crank bolt = priceless
I have two impacts at home, a sears 250 ftlb air and a sears electric. neither got the job done with the ranger, i'm sure my Cornwell would have gotten it off. So, here's what i did. Although I think the sears air would have if i had a bigger compresser and hammered it for 10 minutes.
I had dad sitting in the truck, in 5th gear and holding the brakes for dear life. I took me the breaker bar, got on my back, held on to it, extended my arms out fully, then pushed against the RF tire with my legs untill it broke loose.
/mattGMNRadio DJ, Podcast Co-Host
1984 Ford LTD Crown Victoria - Drag Car.
99 Ranger 2.5 - Parts hauler and Pit truck.
03 Mustang 3.8 Convertable - Head Gaskets fukered up
95 S10 93 Accord
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well today was my last attempt, there is no way I can get it off with human strength :cuss: I've decided to forget about doing the cam swap for now. Now I have to worry about that damned head bolt1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
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