Super Simple Questions

[88Vic]

Trying to get my Lincoln roadworthy again, so I'm going to run a can of seafoam in the gas tank and down the TB. Also need to do an oil change because it's been about a year since I've driven the car.

The question is, do I need drain plug gaskets, or do these not use them? I've gotten away with not using them before, but on some cars it'll slowly leak. It's been so long since I did an oil change on a SBF I can't remember.

Btw the thread title is plural because I know I'll have multiple questions that'll seem like instinct to you guys as I'm slowly fixing this up, so I figure I'll pool them all in one thread.

[DerekTheGreat]

Put BG44 fuel system cleaner in there, I'm not a fan of seafoam and I certainly wouldn't put that skank down my vacuum lines either. There's a video out on u tube of Eric the car guy trying it out on his Honda and uses a camera to check out the cylinders before and after. It removed virtually nothing yet he thinked it worked. For all the effing smoke it produces I'd say its just not worth it. I'd run the gasket things, whenever I don't I get a drip.

[jaywish]

normally no gasket on these.

[88Vic]

There were drain plug gaskets on both, I reused them since they weren't crushed, I'll just get a couple more next time. I also found a can of CRC Engine Cleaner in my truck, put that plus about a half can of seafoam in the tank, and the other half of seafoam into the engine. It smoked pretty good, not sure if it helped but it ran pretty good before it so I'm sure it didn't hurt.

Runs fine right now, can definitely feel a miss so spark plugs are high up on the list. That and finding and installing the brass TV bushing. I won't be satisfied with anything until that's on there, protecting the transmission. Also a trans temp gauge, since I drive it in 3rd instead of OD unless I'm on the highway, I want to keep an eye on the temp in this hot weather. Needs a tach too, I can't stand not knowing exactly what rpm I'm at.

Will need new tires, has slight cracking in between the thread so I'm sticking to around 60mph until I replace them. Gonna use this excuse to put some winter tires on the wheels. And yes, I'll try to do some smokey burnouts with the old dry rotting tires and get video of it. I tried to do a bit today but didn't want to attract attention from the bad smokies, so I found out I could squeal them with a bit of effort, so I'm sure if I tried I could do it. When it comes time for video, I'll get some used oil and wipe down the rear tires, that'll make it easy.

[DerekTheGreat]

Do not drive it unless that TV cable is hooked up properly. Otherwise you'll burn up the clutches. The cable kinda acts as a valve, the more you goose the throttle, the more pressure goes throught the valve body thus properly engaging and lubricating the clutches of the trans, its not just for OD operation, it also helps the governor to determine shift points and whatnot.

[88Vic]

If I burn it up, it's going right back to the shop and they're gonna rebuild/replace for free since they didn't set it up correctly. From what I've heard, he's a really good builder so I'd think he's done a few AOD's by now and knows to set the pressure properly. I just need to make sure to get that brass bushing on there asap.

[DerekTheGreat]

If that linkage is just sitting there its getting between 0-3psi at all times, not good. Just open the hood and look over by the throttle body to check, it will be on the bottom side. If you see something just hanging out next to the valve cover then its not connected. If its not connected just order the part on eBay and drive one of your other cars until it comes in and you can install it. Putting it right back on the shop for another rebuild because they forgot that $20 dollar part seems rather foolish to me. Before I got involved in panthers I knew next to nothing about these but had faint knowledge of this problem. Fast forward to going to look at Ashley's 89 TC and the dude said the trans was shot and OD wasn't working. I stomped on it and it shifted early into third, didn't have 1st either. Got it home and didn't drive it until we got that grommet on there but it was fine up until we rebuilt it several months later.

[88Vic]

I'm gonna drive it as little as possible until I get it fixed, don't want to have to have it in the shop anymore if I don't have to. It runs fine the way it is, downshifts like it should now, but I still need to get that part and make sure it's all good before I daily drive it.

Another question: looking for a set of stock HO headers, all I've found so far are 94-95 GT manifolds, will those fit, or are they different? Right now, the car feels like it has enough torque for me, seems to have more than I remember but I still want to open it up a little. I want to add at least stock HO manifolds and have catless downpipes made to bolt up to the stock H-pipe.

[88Vic]

Here's a good one: when I buy a new brass tv bushing and install it, will that throw the adjustment out of whack? Will I need to take it back to the shop to have the builder readjust? If so, I'll just buy the bushing from a dealer and have him do it. I could handle the install no problem, but if it'll mess up the adjustment, I don't want to even drive it the mile to his shop.

[VicCrownVic]

As long as you don't unlock the adjuster, replacing the bushing will not affect the adjustment of the tv cable.

Take a look at the video posted in the following thread:
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...djustment-info
It will give you a good idea how to unlock (or in your case NOT unlock) the adjuster.

[pantera77]

Here's a good one: when I buy a new brass tv bushing and install it, will that throw the adjustment out of whack?

No.

[gadget73]

Have a gander at the drain plugs when you're under there. If the threads are sharp, replace the plugs. Make sure you know which type you have too. It changed from standard to metric somewhere in the 88-89 range so its possible yours might be either.

For what its worth, my drain plugs came with gaskets.

[88Vic]

Gonna try to make it run a tad better. I'm pretty sure due to the bad valve cover gaskets, it leaks oil and makes it's way to the plugs and they're fouled up. It runs rough at idle, feels like it misses pretty bad, but I don't want to buy new plugs when they'll foul up again soon. I did the oil change and used conventional oil, because I figure that'll leak a bit less than high mileage or synthetic.

The plan is to remove the plugs, heat them up with a propane torch, re-gap them as necessary and re-install. Eventually when I replace all the gaskets, I'll get fresh new plugs and wires but for now I'm hoping this'll do. I'll keep this thing running Roadkill style if I have to.

[88Vic]

Just changed all the plugs, went with NGK's, cheapest Advance had in stock. It helped but still runs rougher than it should, probably try new cap/rotor next, then new wires. It was more difficult getting to the plugs that I thought, at least on the passenger side, all that a/c and smog bs in the way. Since my system leaks, I'm thinking about removing it all since my boys hardly ever ride with me, don't really need a/c since I basically just drive to and from work. I'll keep it all intact, in case I ever sell the car.

Another thing, sometimes when I put it in reverse or drive, it bogs down, like when you let the clutch out in a manual without giving it gas, it feels like it wants to stall. Does it before it's warmed up, and sometimes when it has. Could that be a fuel issue? It drives fine, but I still haven't ran this fuel tank out yet and it has the can of seafoam in it to help clean it out.

[gadget73]

There is one spark plug that is mildly inconvenient to access with the AC in place. If you've ever gotten laid with the lights off and been successful at it, you can change that plug.


Sticky IAC could make it not maintain idle properly when in gear.