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Semi-random stalling issue, stored codes 18 and 32

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    Semi-random stalling issue, stored codes 18 and 32

    Hey guys Brian here. I've been having this problem with ye olde towne car (89 5.0L with 91' Mark VII ECM) where she will die once warmed up every 10 miles of driving or about once a day for me. She will start back up after a few seconds and run fine again for another 10-20 miles.

    -I recently replaced the ignition module/transistor with one from Advance Auto Parts, the original Motorcraft unit died completely.
    -I have stored codes 18 (Loss Of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input To PCM/SPOUT Circuit Grounded ) and 32 (EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Below Closed Voltage) unrelated.

    Do y'all think my problem is this POS transistor I bought? Any input as to a good brand that won't leave me stranded?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Are you talking about the TFI? If so, I would use a Motorcraft and don't forget to clean both surfaces and apply heat transfer paste.


    "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

    "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

    "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by miamibob View Post
      Are you talking about the TFI? If so, I would use a Motorcraft and don't forget to clean both surfaces and apply heat transfer paste.
      Certainly sounds like it could be a bad TFI.
      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
      1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah I'm going to try another one. Sucks they can't manufacture something so simple correctly in 2015, if the TFI is indeed the problem. I was suspecting the ignition coil or the distributor next.
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          #5
          If those are the only codes you got, they are not TFI codes. The 32 is EGR/EVR related and can be a vac or cleaning issue. Unless you get aftermarket parts, for those, they are NOT cheap so I would exhaust all possibilities before replacing them.


          "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

          "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

          "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

          Comment


            #6
            If that is a stored code, make sure you clear it first. It might be some old nonsense. If it comes back, then a flaky TFI or TFI connection sounds likely.

            Also, flaky pickups can do stuff like this.


            32 is usually a bad or wrong egr position sensor. The valve cant close too much, so if the position sensor shows out of range low its either the metal thing that the sensor rod sits against is worn away or the sensor has pooched.
            Last edited by gadget73; 06-23-2015, 05:25 PM.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys, my first shot at this will be to return the TFI with the "lifetime warranty" to Advance and see if anything changes. If it still stalls in the same fashion then that will sort of rule out the TFI module and I'll start looking at the pickup and the wiring harness there. I don't doubt it could be melted a bit in there after so many years of heat.

              I just don't know what type of distributor to buy, there are aftermarket ones, performance ones, and remans.
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment


                #8
                A-1 Cardone has rebuilt dizzys and many time they use OEM's. If the PIP is good they clean it and leave it in.


                "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                Comment


                  #9
                  shoot some contact cleaner in the TFI connector plug. If its got old petrified crap in there, that may be the whole issue. The CRC QD electronics cleaner that any auto parts store should have will do just fine without spending a small fortune or melting the plastic.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Just a quick update: I replaced the entire distributor/TFI Module unit with a junkyard unit from a 90 Grand Marq. Runs fine now no more stalling issue. The junkyard unit was all Motorcraft and looked like it had been replaced at some point in the cars life.
                    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So we really don't know the exact culprit but the good news is that it is fixed!!


                      "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                      "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                      "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Yeah it was narrowed down to the PIP or the TFI module, one of those but not sure which exactly! I suspect the Advance auto TFI module. Also, this stuff is getting so old you aren't certain you'll have a good electrical connection even if you put in new parts. I've had this stuff happen so much with 80s cars, the junkyard OEM parts never fail to fix the issue, but when I buy new at the parts counter either something else quits working or the new part is too good for the other old parts and can't work reliably. I wonder if anyone else has had the same experience as me...
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That is why I stick to OEM parts whenever possible. Would have been a good idea to remove the TFI and clean/thermal paste it before re=installing so you would know it would last several years longer. Who knows when it was last done on the JY parts?? Hopefully you will still get years out of it!!


                          "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                          "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                          "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

                          Comment

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