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    Roller cam blocks

    I have an 89 302 out of my parts vic. I think I'm gonna yank it and rebuild it, that way I can still drive my car. Can you take a roller cam block and stick a hydraulic flat tappet cam in it? Roller cams are pricey and not to many choices in profiles.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

    #2
    yep. Just have to get the correct lifters. The roller cams are better though, and not THAT much more expensive.

    Not too many choices???? Where are you looking?
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      I'd like to try the Lunati Voodoo cam. Seems right up my alley. I'm selling my snowmobile once I finish restoring it, which means I'll have some dough for a serious motor. I want a lopey cam but not to the point where I can barely have enough vacuum for brakes. Any way Roller cams are like 250 correct? What other benefits 'sides less rolling resistance and higher rpm capability?


      Shit now I'm considering one!

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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        #4
        Why would you wanna take a step back in time?

        With a roller motor, you can run a more agressive cam.

        I wouldn't cheap out. If you wanted to go all out, Duceanahalf has an X cam laying around...
        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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          #5
          Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GT
          Why would you wanna take a step back in time?

          With a roller motor, you can run a more agressive cam.

          I wouldn't cheap out. If you wanted to go all out, Duceanahalf has an X cam laying around...
          the x cam might be sold
          the cam i showed you is a stock mustang GT cam. The lobes on the X cam are actually higher than the cam journals.
          http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
          http://secondhandradio.com/

          R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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            #6
            There are a few under 200. They can open and close the valves much quicker because of the rollers. The stock HO cam can make impressive HP. I went with one of the smallest Comp Cams that I could find. The XE264. The nice thing about the rollers is that you can keep a decent idle and still make lots of power.

            yeah, my cam was $245.88...
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #7
              Originally posted by mrltd
              yep. Just have to get the correct lifters. The roller cams are better though, and not THAT much more expensive.

              Not too many choices???? Where are you looking?
              You also will need the longer pushrods from a flat tappet motor.

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                #8
                Most ford racing roller cams i've seen are about $170-180
                Nick
                88 Colony Park LS
                G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
                Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

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                  #9
                  TFS Stage 1 is less than $140

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                    #10
                    fi you use a flat tappet cam you have to use the distributor gear from a flat tappet distributor, and a roller cam gear for a roller cam.
                    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                    http://secondhandradio.com/

                    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                      #11
                      "The lobes on the X cam are actually higher than the cam journals"



                      Than how do you stuff it in the block?? [/quote]
                      Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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                        #12
                        When you put a cam in, it doesn't have to be on center except for when the bearings go through a journal. SO it will still go in, and it won't be any different in difficulty.

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                          #13
                          It always scares me when I put a cam in. I really need to buy or build one of those handles. I guess if you tilted, straightened, and so on you could install but it'd make me nervous of nicking the bearing.
                          Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by p71towny
                            It always scares me when I put a cam in. I really need to buy or build one of those handles. I guess if you tilted, straightened, and so on you could install but it'd make me nervous of nicking the bearing.
                            I feel the same way...I made a long handle, but I still hate doing it. Always afraid that I 'll nick a bearing.
                            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                              #15
                              Handle? What are ya'll talking about? Can't you reach up through the bottom to support a cam if the crank is out?
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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