Alright Mike... you win. I won't run her anymore till I put a gauge on it :P Is it possible to use a compression tester as an oil pressure gauge? I know it won't be accurate but it'll at least give me a broad idea won't it? Ive got one on hand that'll fit the hole. But don't really feel like destroying it. Somebody must have tried it at some point or another.
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Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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gauges are gauges really, just make sure the schraeder valve is not installed otherwise it won't read properly.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Well, the oil pressure is good! So that's a plus. But I also discovered today that this car hates my guts! After taking it for a ride, after about 35 minutes in (running pretty good), it decided that it wanted the front left brake to stick on very hard, and pull me all over the road when braking. And then, it decided it no longer felt like idling and preferred just dying unless I was on the gas
And to top it off, the low power it had before, was a rocket ship to how it is now. Going up hills in first or second gear 3-5 rpms and struggling to do 55 on a flat road, almost certainly because of the brakes but regardless. Check engine light (orange) flickering on and off like crazy and just generally running TERRIBLY, it also didn't give me any new codes, as usual. In a way I just wish the damn thing would blow up so I could justify putting something new in it. It boggles my mind on how this thing went from a car with great drivability and power last summer, to a gutless turd that runs awful within a month. Worst part is that it's all a guessing game, it refuses to give me new codes, even with that orange light on during the test. I can only assume the stalling is because of the new TFI being bad, or maybe the TPS, because it did jump around a bit before it would stall. All I know for sure is, this old boat has me like 
Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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I don't even...Comment
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if the sticking brake is making it run too hot, it will run stupidly. Change both calipers. If one is bad, the other one will fail next week.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I should have been more specific, idle oil pressure was 35 ish psi, on a crappy gauge. Sadly no one was around to raise the rpms. But that to me sounds pretty decent taking age and wear into consideration. And things in the right order. 1. car began running much rougher than normal 2. check engine light started to flicker on and off 3. Began stalling and wouldn't idle 4. Caliper stuck getting onto the highway to go home. I had planned on a big brake swap anyway, so in a way it wasn't really a bad thing. My main issue is that I am a very impatient person when it comes to mechanical problems. My last car I had did the same things but worse, and I sold the damn thing not even a week afterwards (it wasn't worth the trouble). Im trying my damndest not to give up on this thing, because it's got an incredibly straight body with no rust and a 99% rust free frame, and when it ran good, it ran GREAT. The main influence that's really dragging me down is my dad, he hates this thing and just wishes I'd get rid of it, and hearing that over and over does make your love for a car start to go away after a while. So any real suggestions on what my next step other than brakes should be? Order a new TFI, or at least test the one I have? And how do I go about testing it? Test the TPS? I'd really like to avoid this, but would pulling the plenum be a good idea? I'd replace all the lines and check valves while it's off. Thanks for the help guys, I'm all trial and error and just trying to learn how to work on my own shit. This is by far the most complicated thing I've owned (pretty sad fact) and it's obviously showing.Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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if that's cold oil pressure... yeah... it's weak. I get 50-70 PSI cold. If that was operating temp, then you're golden. I get 20-25psi at temp in my 88.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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It was at operating temp. The last time I tested it was when I first got it. And it was a pretty steady 60-62 if I remember right, but that was after sitting all night in the fall on a cold start. It just blows, it has great compression, and good oil pressure, but god awful electronics.Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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Pull the upper intake and replace all the vacuum lines, especially the one to the MAP. It may not fix your issues, but it's easy to do and you something else you can rule out.
These SEFI cars are pretty easy to work on, and run great when all is well. EEC VI is pretty nice and simply to work on, there's not to much BS involved, but nowadays it is ancient tech. Sometimes you just need to work down the line.2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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35 at operating temp is dandy. I don't think I get more than that and my motor has under 20k on it.
I would agree thati t sounds like you have vacuum problems. If the line to the MAP went bad, or the MAP actually failed, it will run pig rich and generally shit-tastic. If the line is in really good shape, unhook the hose to the MAP and see if it runs better. If it runs better, the MAP is bad. Somehow, they seem to fail in a way that makes them run normal with it unhooked, and run like its unhooked with it connected. Not entirely sure the fail mechanism on it, but I suspect its a popped diaphragm or something.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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I just ordered a new TFI, a motorcraft one this time. And I heard in the f150 forums the IAT could also cause running issues like I'm having. So I got one of those too. Mine was full of soot and the little prod inside looked like it was ready to fall off. Anyone here have issues with that?Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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Anyone ever use a mustang TFI? As it turns out that's what I ordered by accident. Just figured I'd ask. Its on and it started but I've gotta put a light on it because the timing is waaay off. Closest I could get was one tooth off.Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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Same part.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Awesome. Thanks man.Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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So I've narrowed things down quite a bit over this weekend. New TFI, new intake air temp sensor, installed oil pressure sender (shut the light off for good) and another new TPS. And still doing it. I put a fuel pressure gauge on it, 30 lbs at idle and would go up with revs. And held 30 lbs for over 5 minutes after shutting the engine off. Hooked it up to a scanner, and gave me nothing except that it had no communication to the IAC at all. Even during the wiggle test unplugging it didn't register on the scanner. Another thing it's doing is almost stalling out in reverse. It goes, almost dies, repeat. Only under light throttle though. It also wouldn't give the scanner anything on the KOER test, only would read with engine off and key on. Any ideas?Current cars:
1989 Crown Victoria LTD wagon, 94,872 miles
1990 Volvo 240 DL 318,513 miles
I've tried foreign cars but I always come back to Ford in the end.
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