So, I finally got to take my '87 out of the garage and exercise it after it hibernated all winter. I was a gorgeous 80 degrees and sunny FINALLY, so I thought it proper to get it out of the garage. Car starts and runs well except for one issue. It seems that the transmission is "lugging". Even when coasting, with foot off the accelerator, I get this lugging sensation. At light throttle, O/D is kicking in around 38-39 mph. Anyways, shifting seems a bit unsure/confused. I had the intake off to clean things up over the winter and simply bolted the throttle cable assembly back onto the throttle body. I didn't make any adjustments to it before or after this event. Is it possible that this is now out of whack after unhooking and reinstalling it? I need to consult my shop manual as I have no idea how to adjust or to know what is correct. Fluid is clean and red, but I plan to change it anyways, for good measure. Any ideas?
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Lugging along...transmission or?
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Lugging along...transmission or?
Last edited by LithiumCobalt; 05-12-2014, 08:46 AM.Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark IITags: None
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it could have slipped a little during all of that. 1mm one way or the other will make a difference.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Its possible. Does it not seem to want to downshift out of overdrive without a lot of throttle input? A cheater way to test if more pressure helps is to pull the cable end out a bit and put a zip tie between the "hat" crimped on the cable and the bit that goes into the throttle body. If that helps, you need a bit more. Or you can just rock the zip tie. I've had one on the Mark VII for probably 4 years now.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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excellent points. The AOD is directly coupled in drive and overdrive, so any engine running problems will feel more obvious. Since it usually only shows up once it shifts, its easy to think its a transmission problem instead.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Hmm, interesting fellas. I know what the EGR valve is, but how do I clean passages? Do I need to remove the intake again (crossing fingers the answer is no.)? The lugging only seems to occur when either maintaining speed with little to no throttle or decelerating. If I have moderate throttle going, accelerating or give 'er hell, she shifts through all the gears right nice with no bitching.
Is it possible for the oxygen sensor(s) to be marginal without throwing a code? I would think I would have driveability problems throughout all conditions if these were the issue, though.Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II
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Did you unplug the EGR valve's regulator connector and go for a drive to see if the EGR is to blame? Leave everything else connected.
I've had a bad plug wire cause symptoms similar to what you are describing.1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.
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Unplugged the EGR electrical connector and took her for a spin. Seemed maybe *slightly* better or it could have just been my imagination. How do I clean the channels? Do I just remove the valve? Plug wires are brand new Motorcrafts. I suppose I will have to check them out again just to confirm. It's weird that it only occurs while slightly decelerating or maintaining speed with no throttle action. Even slight throttle or half throttle or full throttle, I get none of the "hesitation" or "jerking". Engine doesn't change sound like it is being taxed or bogged down. Feels like a transmission issue very similar to one of my 96s that had a slight torque converter shudder or slippage.Last edited by LithiumCobalt; 05-12-2014, 10:34 PM.Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II
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Just to check - did you use dielectric grease in the plug wires in BOTH sides (plug AND Dizzy sides) before installation?
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"
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Originally posted by miamibob View PostJust to check - did you use dielectric grease in the plug wires in BOTH sides (plug AND Dizzy sides) before installation?Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II
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I'm dealing with similar symptoms in the '91 and have been for most of the time I've had the car. I'm running out of parts to replace, so I'm watching this very closely, but won't hijack it for my own purposes. Just know you're not alone...Last edited by kishy; 05-12-2014, 11:08 PM.
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostIts possible. Does it not seem to want to downshift out of overdrive without a lot of throttle input? A cheater way to test if more pressure helps is to pull the cable end out a bit and put a zip tie between the "hat" crimped on the cable and the bit that goes into the throttle body. If that helps, you need a bit more. Or you can just rock the zip tie. I've had one on the Mark VII for probably 4 years now.Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II
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Tried the ziptie trick. Didn't seem to make any difference. I am going to follow the manual on TV cable adjustment and make sure it is set in the right spot. I also ordered up an Innova code scanner with LED readout so that should be here tomorrow. I will see if I can get any codes to come back. Weird for a car with this mileage to have a problem like this.
Are the plug wires particularly sensitive to how they are oriented? I used the factory guides that were attached the valve cover bolts and the separators as original, but that's it. Didn't do anything special as far as routing goes. There's lots of places where the wires are very close or touching metal objects. I would think it would make no difference with a brand new set of wires. Any tips on things I should look out for?
Also, how do I clean the EGR valve and passages properly?Nick
Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II
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