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water pump gasket - baked on!!!

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    water pump gasket - baked on!!!

    I have never seen a gasket material so carmelized. The WP came off easy. Bolts no big deal, etc. But the gasket between the pump and the TC is literally baked on. Is there any chemical that will take this off easier? I can scrape, but I'm gonna be here an hour or so. Tried razor blades, gasket scraper, etc. Not making good progress. Have worked on lots of cars, and this one is by far the most difficult gasket bake on...

    thanks for any suggestions.
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    There are mini sanding disks for this kind of thing. They can go on the end of a drill, if you don't have a mini air grinder. Lot of shops use them.

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

    Comment


      #3
      thanks marquisman. Yeah, i have a dremel tool but don't have the little abrasive wheel. Should've thought of that instead of fighting the gasket for over an hour!
      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
      90 Grand Marquis, stock

      Comment


        #4
        Be extremely careful with any sort of abrasive. Its an aluminum timing cover. If you go too far, it will never seal and then you're into replacing the timing cover.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          My dad has an air grinder that I used when I replaced my lower intake gaskets. He told me the same thing gadget said and he also told me to use the most warn out pads on the aluminum stuff to help keep from going to far.
          Vic

          ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
          ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
          ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
          ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah, I just stuck with a gasket scraper. Actually, you can gouge with a scraper too. I had to use one of those paint scrapers that has the razor blade.
            95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
            96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
            77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
            98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
            90 Grand Marquis, stock

            Comment


              #7
              true, but small nicks are easy enough to patch up. Wide low spots are virtually impossible.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                those discs are bad juju; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=563163

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                  I'm gonna call BS on that. He makes a good point but every single shop in the world uses scothbrite pads and die grinders. According to that guy not one engine should ever run again.

                  I usually use the little yellow finger pads on aluminum or remotely clean parts. Anything else gets brown cookie fever.
                  Last edited by pantera77; 10-27-2013, 02:38 PM.
                  2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                  2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                  2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                  1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also there are different grades of disks, I don't use the brown (coarse) on aluminum mating surfaces. There is medium (green ?), fine and extra fine (grey).
                    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i call bs on that post too, been using them for 20 yrs, but yea use common sense, lay rags down in the intake valley when removing old gasket material to catch the debris

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Since I was looking through my tsb collection, I came across these two. A bit more science behind this than the bitog post that I originally linked.

                        I'll stick with my 'bad juju' statement.

                        Alex.
                        Attached Files

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