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Intake Manifold for 351W - 4bbl

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    #16
    Well, I'm told the stock intake on the engine is a piece of junk, and to that end he recommended I upgrade to a better one that would support a 4bbl carbeurator.

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      #17
      Best single mod I ever did, gears. They make all the difference. If its an AOD, you can still get decent mileage. I ran 3.73s and 4.10s, either was a huge step in the right direction from 3.08s. Then I ran a c4, still worth it. For a fuel setup, performer or rpm are both good, I dyno'd it and never once lost torque with the rpm compared to performer. I also ran a 670 Holley SA, after a lot of tuning it ran amazing; just the initial tuning was miserable. get better heads, before a cam. GT40s at least, P's are preferred, most shorty headers have no issues with them in our chassis. I finally added a TFS1 cam with 1.7s and dyno'd 301rwhp and 332rwtq, I have the sheets that I will post later if I remember to get them. Just know it gets expensive quick, if you are anything like me, you want to go faster and faster. I didn't see where you said what your goal was except slight improvment. Gears first, then fuel induction with headers. Headers are super cheap just about anywhere, check craigslist. If you are trying to go fast, do it right the first time, aluminum heads and stroke it, it pays off to do it correct the first time. I have done it three times now and am finally upgrading to a 521 big block, I want to go really fast.

      -BLANE
      85' Crown Vic 2dr. Small tire stock block grudge car.
      09’ CTS-V family car making over 700whp with ease.
      79’ f350 427 ls7 swapped with th400. Prerunner setup
      64’ c30 dually. Slammed and turbo 5.3 with 4l80e

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        #18
        If you get smogged, ford made an HO 351 in the early 80's in the trucks. Had a holley carb with tons of emissions crap.
        Maintaining Grandma's 84 CFI GM for her

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          #19
          Just putting an intake and carb on the engine makes very little difference, unless your current carb and tune-up is not in order.

          I've been there and done that. I would not recommend spending the money, unless you're going to do it all. You'll be disappointed; I know I was.

          The intake and carb may be restrictive, but so are the heads and cam in a stock 351.

          The little 302 P head, air gap, DP, 3400 stall NLU converter, silverfox vb and 3.73s in my tudor would dump all over my old 351 4 bbl, full exhaust, 3.73 police cruiser. Not even a close race.

          If you're gonna build a hot rod, start with the drivetrain and chassis. Transmission, converter, and rear gears. And make sure the suspension isn't all shot, because you're never gonna hook anything that has any power with clapped out bushings, etc. Then, when you do the motor up (either a rebuild, or heads, cam, etc, if your bottom end is in good shape), have the converter re-stalled for your new application. Don't buy a cheap converter either, because in automatic car, it will do alot for your set-up. I paid over 6 bills for my DD NLU 3400 stall, and it makes a world of difference. Mash it and light the tires off hard, because you're leaving right in the power.

          Alot of times, folks are so quick to start fiddling with the engine. Tune it up, make sure its in good health, and move on to the chassis. When I had my '12 GT, the only things I did were a catback, shifter, rear suspension (adjustable, with control arms, etc), and drag radials.

          I ran into the 12.60s with a stock airbox, cat forward, and tune. Guys at the track would ask me who tuned it, etc, etc. Ford tuned it. I just went about building it, (and driving it), how it was meant to be driven. Alot of guys are afraid to go out and wheel these new cars; wind it up, power shift, etc. They can take it, and they'll run really well in stock tune with the right mods.

          Thats why I say to set your chassis and drivetrain up. Granted, the stock 351 is a slug and doesn't really overpower the chassis, but you'll get to tuning it up eventually, and when you do, you'll actually be able to use the power.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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            #20
            Originally posted by Mike_Windsor View Post
            I've been toying with the idea of changing out the intake manifold on my car to upgrade to a 4 barrel carbeurator instead of the stock 2 barrel unit on there now.
            I have had good luck with the Weiand Stealth intakes on 351W motors. The factory camshaft had decent lift but conservative duration as peak horsepower was only 4000 RPMS as compared to the Mustang at 4200RPMs. GT40 heads are almost free these days and HR magazine made ~380 HP with a set on their junkyard jewel 351W build and a mild cam.

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