smog removal

[landmaster77]

It's time to tackle the leaking intake gasket on the ltd. Before I attempt it however, I'm going to pull off the smog equipment. The car in question is a 1981 Ford LTD with a 302, 2bbl VV carb and aod. I know I need the 5/8 bolts for the heads, shorther fan belt for the a/c, and various rubber caps to block lines, ports, ect.

Do I need flat washers,lock washers, or thread locker on the 5/8 bolts for the heads?

Is there anything I am missing?

How about taking off the egr and replacing it with a block off plate?

Will removing the smog equipment throw off the timing or carb?

[johnunit]

There's no point in removing the EGR, it will do nothing but throw off the engine's computer. You will gain almost literally no power, lose fuel economy, and run a higher risk od detonation. In all honesty, the VV carbs are such a mess of vacuum lines and strange interconnections and reactions that unless you're changing to a more traditional carburetor it's not worth messing with any of the emissions junk, you're just asking for trouble.

[BigT]

Do I need flat washers,lock washers, or thread locker on the 5/8 bolts for the heads?

Not sure what you are asking. When I removed my smog pump, I didn't put back the bolts back in. Are you swapping out the heads or something?

How about taking off the egr and replacing it with a block off plate?

If you remove the EGR, leave the sensor plugged in so the computer will know it's not working and will adjust for it, but not sure if you have to worry about that with a carb system. How much does a computer really do on a carb system?

Will removing the smog equipment throw off the timing or carb?

It didn't on my fuel injected system, again not sure if it matters much with a carb system.

Is there anything I am missing?

Not sure how much you want to spend or deep you want to go, but with a carb system you may be better off with a aftermarket carb then sticking with an emission carb. It would be simpler and better performance. May be even a aftermarket intake since you are going that deep.

[Lincolnmania]

never gonna get the bolts in the back of the heads, the threads get all carboned up.......cut the pipe ends off, get new gaskets flip em over to the flat side and bolt the fittings back on the heads.
ditch the vv carb, pick up a 4 barrel intake and a 4 barrel carb, or find a ford 2150 carb off a aod van or an aod t-bird/cougar or f series (up to 86 in the trucks iirc) and rebuild it and bolt it on, you must have the tv rod geometry correct or you will nuke the aod.

[zoomie]

you can also clean up the holes and stick a soft plug in them.....

[t65neon5]

ok...i did this with an 85 F-150 351....it had a factory holly,but otherwise is VERY similar to what you have.....dont worry about the "computer"....your watch has more "computing" power than what is in that car,removing the smog pump wont hurt anything (just be sure to plug the air tubes off or will it have an exhaust leak)....do what scott said about the rear crossover tube to eliminate it if you decide to go that route....i removed the EGR off mine with no "ill" effects also...but i could never find a "block off plate" for it,so being that it was the original cast iron intake i just cut a plate to fit and welded it shut,and used a 2 or4 inch(cant remember which,sorry) Mr.gasket carb spacer......keep in mind ,i had a 4bbl holley carb for this with the proper intake,i DO NOT know if you can do the same with the VV carb intake (however,a 4bbl carb / intake combo should be reasonably priced at most salvage yards.....look for any 4bll 302 from the 70s to the mid to late 80s.....lots of F-150 trucks had those.....also,the holly/motorcraft carb can be a bit picky,just clean it REAL good,get a rebiuld kit,and be patient,and it will perform very well.....and dont "force" anything....if you strip any of the threads ,it becomes worthless)....hope this helps...oh yeah...this engine was in my 91 LTD p72...so it will work in any box panther that was originally carberated

[Ike Clanton]

Didn't I read one time that you can leave the air pump installed and just install a shorter belt and leave the pump out of the routing somehow? Is that true, and if so, what belt??

[t65neon5]

Didn't I read one time that you can leave the air pump installed and just install a shorter belt and leave the pump out of the routing somehow? Is that true, and if so, what belt??

...cant help with that one...i deleted the A/C also,so all of it went bye bye

[johnunit]

I ran without a smog pump belt (ac doesn't work anyway) for a little bit. The exhaust tone was a bit different at some point, and I think I sorta kinda noticed a bit of a difference in acceleration, but that's about all it did. Definitely not worth doing. Removing the smog pump can make sense because you're losing weight and getting more room to do certain jobs, but there's really no point in removing the belt unless that tiny performance gain is worth it for you. Plus you might find your area getting smog testing at some point and find your smog pump not working properly anymore... Really might as well keep it hooked up and pollute a little less.

[Ike Clanton]

I ran without a smog pump belt (ac doesn't work anyway) for a little bit. The exhaust tone was a bit different at some point, and I think I sorta kinda noticed a bit of a difference in acceleration, but that's about all it did. Definitely not worth doing. Removing the smog pump can make sense because you're losing weight and getting more room to do certain jobs, but there's really no point in removing the belt unless that tiny performance gain is worth it for you. Plus you might find your area getting smog testing at some point and find your smog pump not working properly anymore... Really might as well keep it hooked up and pollute a little less.

My only real motivation to remove just the belt is that it would be a little quieter. I don't like how those air pumps sound. At all.

[sly]

Didn't I read one time that you can leave the air pump installed and just install a shorter belt and leave the pump out of the routing somehow? Is that true, and if so, what belt??

yes. 56" belt (K060560 for 6-rib setups). Run it with the belt on the top of the tensioner.

[Ike Clanton]

yes. 56" belt (K060560 for 6-rib setups). Run it with the belt on the top of the tensioner.

Thanks!

[landmaster77]

thanks for the info

[sly]

you can also use a k060565 works better if you can find it. It's a little easier to get over the stock tensioner's huge lip.

[porschpow]

The only reason I would remove my smog is cause the bearings (or pump) makes squeaking noises (incredible annoying). However, Going through with removing the upper intake seems like its a lot of work to do. Two concerns:

Emissions (will I pass, In NJ? To people in Jersey. A guy I know on this forum that he did it and he is good with emisions
Level of work to do the removal? It seems the mor eand more I read into this, it seems like its more work
Delat in performance???