Hey all. Had a question about my dads 86 cp. The car is 200 miles away from me and my dad thinks the egr valve went bad. He scanned the computer and i think he got a code 33 or something like that. This used to be my wifes car so it has a new egr positioning sensor, egr vacuum regulator, and iac that i had put on a few months back and it does have a used egr valve that i got from pick a part a few months back witch makes my dad and myself to believe that the valve took a dump. I did order a new one from rockauto but they had two different ones. One with the egr having studs for the egr positioning sensor to slide on then uses nuts to secure it, then one not having studs and looks like it uses small screws to secure the positioning sensor to the egr valve. I order the one that does not have the studs and uses the screws to secure the sensor to the valve. did i get the correct one? Also what size vacuum line and how many feet should i get to replace the brittle plastic line? He said that the cp is hesitating from a stop from time to time. The cp also has new manifold gaskets along with new vacuum hoses. He said he had the car running and sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines and got nothing till he sprayed the egr valve and he said the idle went up just a bit. For years i always got a code 31 and 32 but it eventually went away with the parts i replaced. Any ideas? thanks matt
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egr question
1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbinesTags: None
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he the codes he pulled was 34 and a 14. I think the code 14 is there because he said it had stalled on him a few times. He also said during warm up the rpm will shoot up then will go up and down up and down and it shouldnt be the iac because it new. Any ideas guys?1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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34 is either a chunk of crud under the pintle, or the sensor is bad or simply not quite adjusted right. Adjustment on these involves using a file to carefully remove material from the end of th shaft so the closed voltage falls in the computer's OK range. This should not actually cause any real problems unless the valve is in fact wedged open slightly, which would make it idle like crap.
14 is either a dying pickup, TFI, or a wiring fault.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I cant remember but what is the correct voltage to the sensor. I was thinking that the code 14 came up because my dad said that the car was idling up and down then it stalled. I do have another sensor but will have to wait till my dad makes the 200 mile trip down here. My dad has never really liked the way this car has ran for the past 15 years. He said he is ready to go old school and drop a carb on. But im still pushing for the efi to stay.1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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my dad cleared the codes and he said its running a lot better. So i still need the correct closed voltage to the sensor and the correct size vacuum line and how many feet. if the code 14 comes back then i should plan on a new dizzy right? thanks matt1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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bump bump.1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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well my dad made the 200 mile trip to my house. He said the merc ran great till he got off the interstate when it stalled and was jerking around at the stop light. I got the new egr valve in along with the egr sensor so we will be putting that on. Ill also check the codes for him and see if the code 34 and 14 came on during his trip. Im thinking the 14 is coming on because of when engine stall. It does seem to have a slight miss at idle through the exhaust. So maybe ill go ahead and get the merc a new dizzy and get the tfi tested to see if thats the problem. It was hot as crap out today and he drove through 115 degree weather to get the car out here so im thinking the egr is bad and is staying open at idle or the pip or tfi is bad in the dizzy. Wish me luck. Also does this dizzy have the cast or steel gear. Thanks mattLast edited by 84merc951; 08-14-2012, 01:06 AM.1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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well im gonna put the new parts on right now and also thought i should check the voltage at the tps. I found this tip on another site and wanted to see if this is true.
n the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.
Posted by FSB member Jermil01 recently:
Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??
Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.
To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.
You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.
So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V.You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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well changed the coil, dizzy, egr valve and sensor. It seemed to help quite a bit but the idle was still crazy till i saw radiator residue on the iac. I asked my dad what happened and he said 2 weeks ago the cooler line going to the egr plate blew off and he got fluid everywhere. So i found a old ford iac valve put it on and what do you know all went away and is running smooth now. He drove the 200 miles back home in 118 degree heat and he said he got 23 mpgs and it ran great. Hard to believe that big of a car with a 3.55 rear can get that kind of mpgs. I hope this fixed all his issues as the car has been doing this for years. what did you guys think of the info i found on setting the tps? thanks matt1984 mercury grand marquis ls rebuilt 306 flat top pistons with factory cfi and lincoln headers with single glasspack dual snorkle air cleaner. Gloss black paint with slick top coversion.
1986 mercury grand marquis colony park 5.0 sefi dual exhuast thrush turbos with h pipe and turbines
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Interesting. I hadn't seen that before. I'd heard from others that the ECM will self-zero the TPS value as long as its within some range, roughly 0.7-1.2 volts. Essentially the notion is that whatever it sees on startup it sets as the 0% throttle value and scales from there, provided the voltage is within the ECM's range for a good sensor. Above or below that value and it thinks the sensor is a dud and ignores it.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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My car also shows Code 34 when I scan it. Searching the archives a long time ago, I got the impression this is a common, or even spurious, code to come up and most people ignore it. I played around with the egr and related components. I find nothing amiss. Other than an intermittent high rpm idle, my car otherwise runs fine.
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