Hey Guys, One side of my spout connector has been cut on my 88 Grand Marquis it is still there just cut. Can I just solder it back together and then heat shrink it? or will that have too much resistance? Weird that it hasn't had any bad issues just want to fix it. Thanks
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Soldering should be fine, a good joint is about 0 ohms.
The ECU can limp with no SPOUT signal, but you lose spark advance and dwell control. So you'll get more power, easier starts, and maybe better fuel economy with the SPOUT connected.
You'll want to check the base ignition timing too. If there's any scenario in which reconnecting SPOUT could possibly be bad, it's one in which the base timing is way off...
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Originally posted by 1988mgm View Posthow do I set the base timing I have a timing light
Hook the timing light to cylinder 1's spark plug wire. Marked with a number '1' on the cap.
Remove the spout connector (yours is already removed :p ), start the engine, shine the light at the pointer, it should light up at your mark.
If not, shut the car off. Loosen the distributor bolt (1/2" socket or wrench however you can get to it). Restart the engine, with the timing light in one hand, and the distributor in the other, rotate it however you can to set the timing to the mark for 10BTDC. It would help if you have an extra person at this point. Shut off the car, and tighten the hold down. Restart the car and check the timing. It should be in the same place. If not, do it again. When you have set the base timing, reconnect the spout. Check timing again. The dot should move all over the place as the computer advances and retards the ignition timing.
Good luck.
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I usually suggest a chalk or paint line on the balancer at the 10BTDC line so you can see it. Its really hard to see otherwise. Just be sure its on the BTDC side, not the ATDC side of zero.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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you're sure its 10BTDC and not 10ATDC? What was it before ?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Did you disconnected the SPOUT when setting the timing and reconnect it after? That's the process, it should say so on the emission control sticker.
If you set timing with the SPOUT connected, it'll be way off.
Is this car basically stock? Or does it have a history -- like an engine swap that maybe left you with a mismatched engine and ECU, anything like that?
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Original is good. Did the SPOUT get cut by accident or is it possible someone cut it on purpose? Not that I know what that would imply.
Did the timing go all over the place when you reconnected SPOUT? That would confirm it's a good solder, the timing will bounce all over if the computer is able to control it.
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I got two KOEO codes, 33 and 63.33 is from my egr not being hooked up via vacuum and Idk bout the TPS circuit out of range low. and I got six KOER codes. I got a 12,13,18,33,44,94. I took my smog pump off so 44 and 94 are from that.12 and 13 are rpm not within test range codes, 18 is the spout circuit open,and 33 is egr related
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