water pump replacement

[Shelley1985]

The water pump went out on me last thursday. Got a new one plus a gallon of antifreeze. Here's my question: what all do a need to take off in order to get to it, and how long is long enough to let it sit before it is safe to reassemble everything? I know for sure i will need to take off the radiator and fan, but what else needs to be removed? And what should I keep in mind while replacing the water pump? I haven't been on in a while. Been tinkering and life and all that.

[jaywish]

This is what I did for the 89. did not need to remove the radiator but you can just to get it out of the way. drain fluid, loosen bolts on smog pump, and fan pulley, remove battery negative cable, loosen belts, remove fan clutch/fan, remove alternator wires and alternator, brackets for a/c,smog, alternator and steering pumps. Check the condition of all your hoses as it would be the best time to change them if you think they need it. Clean the gasket mateing surface and use rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket. It will be easier to atv the gasket to the water pump first before installing the pump. Make sure you mark the bolts so you know where they all go. I can not remember if the pump bolts themselves were all the same, what I did was place them in the new waterpump holes as I removed them.This way will also let you know if you have removed all of the bolts.


I do not know if you need to flush out your system, if you do, do that first. It can be a bit tricky to get the right mix of antifreeze after that. The testers are cheap but you will needmore antifreeze. If the system is completly flushed with fresh water, find out the engine coolant capacity and pour in 1/2 the total capacity in straight (not premixed) antifreeze before adding any additional water.

Jay

[sly]

you need to take off everything that's on one of the bolts that mounts it. First, the fan and shroud. Then the alternator, upper bracket, lower bracket with the power steering pump on it (no need to remove the power steering pump, just set it aside so that the opening to the pump reservoir is pointing up to prevent a mess). A/C upper bracket, and tensioner arm bracket. THEN... remove the bypass hose and heater hose... the lower radiator hose... and finally you can start removing the pump. You may need a skinny wrench to hold the bolts while you get the nuts off that are holding the brackets in place. The bolts are threaded down to a center "nut" and then threaded some more. The "nut" is actually the head of the bolt, but it's in the middle of the bolt instead of at the end. once the pump is off... you MUST clean the surface on the timing chain cover so the new gasket and goop have a smooth surface to adhere to. A putty knife or light use of a razor can help with difficult spots. you want to try your best to not make any deep scratches (may cause leaks). I generally use the permatex water pump gasket sealer from the parts store. You also want to soak up the coolant that is right there in the channels so that you can get the mating surfaces really dry. Once you bolt the new one on (with gaskets and sealer - light bead... don't want a bunch of squishy - in place) and torqued down to about 12-15 ft lbs... let it sit for about an hour or two (good time for lunch/dinner). then it's just a matter of bolting everything back on and topping off the coolant. It should take a newbie about 6-8 hours. some folks that are used to the job can get it done in 4-5 hours. with air tools for spinning off nuts and such... it gets even quicker.

[ford man]

Here is a video on youtube that might be helpfull: He does the front cover too so I guess you can disregard that step if you want.

If you use permatex "the right stuff" you can add fluids and go in under an hour I think. "The right stuff" is supposed to be the best rtv going but I've never used it.

tip: put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator so you won't damage any of the fins while your working cause stuff happens.

[86VickyLX]

I used ultra blue RTV and the blue felpro water pump gaskets... Had it running an hour after complete reassembly... Make sure your gasket surfaces are clean and relatively flat. The blue RTV will fill the imperfections in the gasket surfaces. Don't go crazy with the stuff. Just a nice coating to fill in the imperfections in the gasket surfaces. Keep in mind where each bolt went because there are different length bolts. While you're in there you should replace the timing cover and the timing chain and gears if they haven't been replaced already.

[Shelley1985]

Cool thanx guys! Oh and as far as the timing chain goes, it needs a new chain, but I'm afraid of screwing it up even worse than it is right now (rough idle almost sounds hit and miss every now and again). She runs fine when she's actually running, so I won't worry too much on a timimg chain right about now. But now I know where it's at

[Piece-it pete]

I'm with 86Vicky but understand the reluctance. The plastic toothed sprockets on your chain gears can self destruct. My chain had been replaced and still had tons of slop!

My 02, think about the chain as you remove the water pump. Heck if you've got the green and you know you'll need the chain eventually get the parts. Once you see how far along you are, and get a good look at the cover, you might decide it looks, um, doable enough to continue right on to the chain. Just a thought.

The cardboard on the radiator is a great idea! I also use cardboard to keep my bolts right, I punch holes in it with a screwdriver and stick the bolts through it like they go on the car, sometimes with drawings or notes with a marker.

Good luck!

Pete

[Shelley1985]

yeah with the timing chain i honestly think i will break down and have my mechanic mess with that at the same time i have him replace the power steering belt. or do it myself depending on how far into school i am lol.

[jaywish]

You have to remove the belts to do the pump. Do you have the tools you need to do the job?

[86VickyLX]

You have to remove the belts to do the pump. Do you have the tools you need to do the job?

... A socket wrench with a 14mm socket and a 15mm socket?
Speaking of which, break the water pump pulley bolts loose with the belt on. It'll give you enough tension and hold the pulley firm while you loosen them (if the belt is tensioned properly). That's a 7/16" wrench.

Also, by doing the timing cover gasket and gears you save yourself the trouble of having to pull it apart again, when the timing cover gasket leaks from being disturbed when you pull the water pump off of it. Since some of the bolts that hold on the water pump also hold the timing cover...

[Shelley1985]

this is beginning to sound like its going to be a headache.... @_@

[Shelley1985]

but as i have said i do appreciate the advice. better than going into it blind so to speak.

[sly]

it's more of a back ache really.

[johnunit]

yeah biggest issue I have (even as a younglin) with these long engine accessory jobs is leaning wayyy over the grille. hurts the back after a while...

Just take lots of pictures as you go if you're worried, and soak anything resembles a bolt in WD40, liquid wrench, or other penetrating fluid before you start. Those two tips (and 'check grandmarq.net for tips' lol) are what have saved me the most time of anything.

[Piece-it pete]

It's not that bad but can be very time consuming. If you have to just change the pump then hey, do it. Just be sure to clean up and antisieze the bolts so they'll come right out next time.

it's more of a back ache really.

LOL!

Pete