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coolant leak
WARNING: Above advise is based on actual experience or just plain common sense. In the event said advise is determined to be incorrect you are entitled to a full refund of exactly what you paid for it.lol
85 LTD Crown Vic Coupe 302 CFI Dual Exhaust No Cats Thrush Welds
pwr windows, locks, seat, antenna
cruise, tilt, white on white, maroon interiorTags: None
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Originally posted by 86VickyLX View PostIntake gasket. Timing cover gasket, water pump gasket.
If you have access to a coolant system pressure tester, hook it up, put it under pressure, see where it comes out.
Honestly I would replace all of those gaskets. It wouldn't hurt to pressure test it anyway but I would replace them all at the same time...the same stuff has to come off to do either the water pump or timing cover gaskets, and the intake gaskets are NOT far away.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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I hate to second-guess, but this is from personal experience with a leak that pooled in the same spot:
Why are you 100% sure it's not the t-stat? I spent a good week (actually, a very shitty week) trying to re-seal the warped and corroded t-stat housing. A half dozen paper gaskets, two different liquid gasket types, different cure times, false starts that varied from incredibly slow leaks to full-throttle only leaks to leaks that didn't manifest until the car was sitting cooling at a friend's place after a 30 minute drive. If the leak is a pinhole at the bottom of the t-stat housing I found you could even run your hand over the offending area without getting it wet.
Just food for thought.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Originally posted by johnunit View PostI hate to second-guess, but this is from personal experience with a leak that pooled in the same spot:
Why are you 100% sure it's not the t-stat? I spent a good week (actually, a very shitty week) trying to re-seal the warped and corroded t-stat housing. A half dozen paper gaskets, two different liquid gasket types, different cure times, false starts that varied from incredibly slow leaks to full-throttle only leaks to leaks that didn't manifest until the car was sitting cooling at a friend's place after a 30 minute drive. If the leak is a pinhole at the bottom of the t-stat housing I found you could even run your hand over the offending area without getting it wet.
Just food for thought.
I can't find any leaks at the T-stat on mine. I haven't opened the front cover yet so the source of the same leak pooling remains unknown.
Thanks for the idea though, I had ruled it out because it was recently replaced along with the hoses, tstat, water pump but I never did the timing cover gasket.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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intake manifold gasket mostlikely
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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weep hole behind the water pump is just below that bolt directly over the coolant in the first picture. that's where my Mark was leaking. probably needs water pump seals or new water pump.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Originally posted by 1990LTD View PostI can't find any leaks at the T-stat on mine. I haven't opened the front cover yet so the source of the same leak pooling remains unknown.
Thanks for the idea though, I had ruled it out because it was recently replaced along with the hoses, tstat, water pump but I never did the timing cover gasket.
Also, check your clamps, just because they're new doesn't mean shit. Some come loose and will cause hoses to leak, and potentially blow off of the neck. BTDT
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i check hose clamp tightness like every other oil change
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
Comment
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WARNING: Above advise is based on actual experience or just plain common sense. In the event said advise is determined to be incorrect you are entitled to a full refund of exactly what you paid for it.lol
85 LTD Crown Vic Coupe 302 CFI Dual Exhaust No Cats Thrush Welds
pwr windows, locks, seat, antenna
cruise, tilt, white on white, maroon interior
Comment
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*though* the top of the timing cover? How weird.
Will need to pop that off and repair it - either find a replacement in your price range, or find someone competent in brazing or welding aluminum. A shop across town from me will weld up anything starting at $25; I had them fix a cracked aluminum oilpan once.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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if you mean the little hole in the top of the timing cover that is directly behind the water pump... it's a weep hole.
Here's a pic of the one on my Mark's engine since it's actually semi clean in there...
The blue circle is around the weep hole.
The red arrow points to the front of the car.
the green arrow points to the water pump.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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what's the hole there for? maybe that's where mine is leaking from...it's not wet anywhere elsesigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
Comment
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Originally posted by slymer View Postif you mean the little hole in the top of the timing cover that is directly behind the water pump... it's a weep hole.
Here's a pic of the one on my Mark's engine since it's actually semi clean in there...
The blue circle is around the weep hole.
The red arrow points to the front of the car.
the green arrow points to the water pump.
WARNING: Above advise is based on actual experience or just plain common sense. In the event said advise is determined to be incorrect you are entitled to a full refund of exactly what you paid for it.lol
85 LTD Crown Vic Coupe 302 CFI Dual Exhaust No Cats Thrush Welds
pwr windows, locks, seat, antenna
cruise, tilt, white on white, maroon interior
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