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What to address if I pull the upper intake

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    What to address if I pull the upper intake

    thinking about pulling the upper intake to inspect the all original hoses underneath. What should I service while the intake is off?

    Thanks,
    RT
    95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
    96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
    77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
    98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
    90 Grand Marquis, stock

    #2
    vacuum hoses...there are a number of them and all in wonderfully different sizes. i'd replace anything rubber, really. you could replace the injector O-rings while you're in there, couldn't hurt.


    PCV valve, screen, and rubber grommet at the back of the lower intake manifold



    gaskets:

    upper plenum to lower intake
    throttle body to egr spacer
    egr valve
    egr spacer to plenum
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    Comment


      #3
      the pcv screen is certainly important. It's way down in there, a mesh screen you have to sort of hook out.

      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
        you could replace the injector O-rings while you're in there, couldn't hurt.
        Can be quite inconvenient if you break the pintle caps and have as hard a time as I did finding new ones. Then again, I wonder if the caps are quite necessary?
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
          Can be quite inconvenient if you break the pintle caps and have as hard a time as I did finding new ones. Then again, I wonder if the caps are quite necessary?
          Ya, the pintle caps always break on me just pulling the injectors out. RJM Tech has a nice kit for the EV1 and EV6 style injectors that come with all new o-rings, new pintle caps, spacers, and the internal filter screen for like $30.
          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
            Ya, the pintle caps always break on me just pulling the injectors out. RJM Tech has a nice kit for the EV1 and EV6 style injectors that come with all new o-rings, new pintle caps, spacers, and the internal filter screen for like $30.
            Actually, its $20 for the EV1 and $25 for the EV6. gotta see which kind i have though. That's a good price.
            95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
            96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
            77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
            98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
            90 Grand Marquis, stock

            Comment


              #7
              if the injectors arent giving you problems, I wouldn't touch them but thats just me. I also lit a car on fire because I sliced one of those O rings once, so I'm slightly disinclined to tinker with the fuel rail if its not neccesary.

              +1 on the other things mentioned though, all new vacuum lines, PCV stuff, valve cover gaskets if yours leak, and replace the hoses that go to the EGR cooler in the throttle body. Nobody changes those until they pop. Should be 1/4" or 5/16" fuel hose, can't quite remember right now. if the heater core hoses are old, getting that Z shaped one at the back of the intake out is a lot easier with the upper intake removed.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Valve cover gaskets.

                Alex.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                  Valve cover gaskets.

                  Alex.
                  DOH!!!! How did I forget those in my list!?!
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    if the injectors arent giving you problems, I wouldn't touch them but thats just me. I also lit a car on fire because I sliced one of those O rings once, so I'm slightly disinclined to tinker with the fuel rail if its not neccesary.

                    +1 on the other things mentioned though, all new vacuum lines, PCV stuff, valve cover gaskets if yours leak, and replace the hoses that go to the EGR cooler in the throttle body. Nobody changes those until they pop. Should be 1/4" or 5/16" fuel hose, can't quite remember right now. if the heater core hoses are old, getting that Z shaped one at the back of the intake out is a lot easier with the upper intake removed.
                    1/4" for the egr coolant stuff
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Do most folks stay with the FelPro high temp cork (MSVS50029C) or the Perma-DryPlus design (VS13264T). the latter is more expensive, but I know I used this for an intake on a Chevy Vortec motor and it was far better than the OEM/stock intake manifold gasket.
                      95 DGM Impala SS, 383, LT4 cnc heads, LT4 matched intake, Holley 58 mm t/body, GM 846 cam, GMPP 1.5 rr's, F-body MAF, BH OBD I PCM, LT4 knock module, K&N cold air, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster exhaust, BBHP #73 6-speed, 4:10 gear, sloted and drilled rotors, Z28 cluster
                      96 Buick Roadmaster Limited Wagon, mostly stock
                      77 Ford F150, 400M auto, longbed
                      98 Suburban LS 5.7L Vortec, stock
                      90 Grand Marquis, stock

                      Comment

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