The dreaded KNOCK

[mcninetyone]

The others are right, the best, fastest, easiest, cheapest thing to do is go back with either a LOPO 5.O, an H.O. or
Explorer 5.O. With any one of these three you can use everything thats on your engine now without having to
worry about or invent a thing to make it work.

If it was my choice I would go for the Explorer motor, it has the best heads!
If you do this stay away from the GT40P engines, if you don't then the exhaust manifolds will be a big problem.
96 and early 97 Explorer motors will be just fine, they are GT40 without the exhaust problem.

[johnunit]

What are the budget and goals here? Is this a pure daily driver? How much of your own work can you do? What supporting mods (tranny, gears, etc.) are you considering?

I know you're getting a million suggestions but I think it's because the end goal and the resources available are sort of undefined.

[86VickyLX]

Drive it till it dies.

[stinkydogfilms]

You guy are AWESOME with the knowledge and advice. It is my daily driver. I just upgraded this past Spring with BFG 245/60/15 tires on 8 inch rims, some front end work consisting of ES bushings all around, new ball joints (upper and lower) Bilstein HD shocks (front and rear) and a front solid CVPI swaybar. I now what you guys meant when you said 'RIDIN ON RAILS'. I still have the rear swaybar to put on. As my daily driver, I actually enjoy driving in rush hour. The handling of the car to this point has made it a fun, spirited and safer drive. I do have a 3.55 locker rear axle that was gonna happen until the rod knock issue. The mechanic would rather put in a used JY motor since it will be less down time. I need the car to drive to work and pick up the kids at school. I don't have much money. This will be put on a credit card.OUCH!! But I can pay it back in 2-3 months. I think the 351W will NOT HAPPEN. I do not want problems for the mechanic having to finding brackets and such. The AOD has 2 years on a stock rebuild with a mild shift kit. Another complete performance minded AOD rebuild with Wide Ratio gears and higher speed torque convertor will probably be next Spring after the rear end swap.

Thank you again.

I'm thinking about having the water pump and oil filter changed before the swap in. Anything else as a precaution?

[stinkydogfilms]

meant to say OIL PUMP replaced.

[Grandmashotrod]

Plan for the unexpected, thats all i can say. Spoken from a kid with many cars.

[sly]

Plan for the unexpected, thats all i can say. Spoken from a kid with many cars.

this! Spoken from a married fart with 3 panthers... the Lincoln is the "just in case car" and is in use right now due to the 93 being with Scott getting a new(er) engine and a few other upgrades.

[mcninetyone]

Do all the "swapping" water pump, oil pump ect. ect, during the job, don't put any of that stuff on the old engine. There is a bunch of things that should be changed during one of these swaps to save time and trouble later.

[stinkydogfilms]

I assume the HO or EXPLORER would need their own air intake box and filter. Anything else that would be specific to each? Vacum hoses, computers etc?

TY

[86VickyLX]

I assume the HO or EXPLORER would need their own air intake box and filter. Anything else that would be specific to each? Vacum hoses, computers etc?

TY

You can use stock air box for intake. Upgrade to a later model panther air intake setup.
Computer is specific to the cam. HO cam is used in mustang and mark vii. Explorer cam is used in Explorers and mountaineers. The explorer cam can be used with HO computer.

The Explorer has its own computer but that is OBD-II, which would require extras sensors, a different wiring harness and such to work (unless you tune it).

Reuse panther fuel rail. The explorer and HO both use 19 pound injectors.

Also explorer 302s need the oil filter adapter that's found on panthers and HO motors so you can use stock filter.

[1987cp]

Fuel rail? Intake box? Where does fuel injection even enter the picture if we're talking about '69 and '70 motors?



BTW, any particular reason you're paying someone else to do the work for you? If money is an issue, cheaper to keep driving with the current engine while it holds together, save the labor $$$, and have more options for your swap.


And FYI, the actual accessory brackets don't have to be swapped for the 351. You have to remove and reinstall the p/s pump pulley in order to relocate a mounting bolt, and on the a/c side there's just an extra brace (which doesn't exist on my '81 model even though the bracket itself is the same) that's engine-specific. But then, for a "real" mechanic who despises doing anything even remotely non-stock (like the guy who told me my wagon "couldn't" use a carburetor and freaked out because the stock dash wasn't in it at the time), even that basic reconfiguration might be too complicated for them to understand.

[86VickyLX]

Fuel rail? Intake box? Where does fuel injection even enter the picture if we're talking about '69 and '70 motors?

Derp, did you read the post I was responding to? He's talking about Explorer and HO engines and computers...

[1987cp]

Well, yes, but previously he was talking about ancient barnacle-encrusted stuff ...... never mind!

[mcninetyone]

We have already found out that he needs to do this to his DD, he needs to do it cheap and he wants to keep the fuel injection. So anything besides replacing his 5.O with another 5.O would be a costly mistake. Of course anything can be done with enough money, time and knowledge. But he wants this swap to be a fast turn over and he is on a limited budget. That means he doesn't need to be thinking about 351W's or Clevelands, caburators or anything else. He needs to replace that 5.O with another 5.O. Even using an H.O. or an Explorer motor would be easy compared to any 351 swaps.

[Mike_O]

If the oil pump had stopped working, wouldn't the engine seize up pretty quickly?