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87 TC no spark from coil after the car gets hot

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    #1

    87 TC no spark from coil after the car gets hot

    Had this car running great. Then out of the blue it now dies after it gets hot. It will start and die a couple times and then kaput. Timing is good and I replaced the ignition module with a new one and the same thing happens. Tried a couple other modules I had laying around and get the same result. I have power to the coil it just does not send juice once it the engine gets to operating temp. My Haynes book says it has a Hall sensor. I didn't think this has one. Just the PIP or are these the same thing? Any help would be great.

    Jeremy
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    #2
    Originally posted by jubylives View Post
    Had this car running great. Then out of the blue it now dies after it gets hot. It will start and die a couple times and then kaput. Timing is good and I replaced the ignition module with a new one and the same thing happens. Tried a couple other modules I had laying around and get the same result. I have power to the coil it just does not send juice once it the engine gets to operating temp. My Haynes book says it has a Hall sensor. I didn't think this has one. Just the PIP or are these the same thing? Any help would be great.

    Jeremy
    That's the pickup in the distributor, the hall effect sensor. Have you checked to see if there's a ground to the coil while cranking? If there's a ground then I would suspect your coil. Hook a test light up to the green wire of the coil, with the coil still attached. Does the light flash as you crank the engine? If the light flashes, and the car doesn't start, your coil is toast. If the car starts and when you release the key, it dies, your ignition switch is bad.

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      #3
      did you use the thermal compound on the back of the ignition module ? Is the coil itself getting very hot? Its not impossible that its going bad, and when it gets hot it opens up. It wouldn't be my first suspicion but if you have a spare coil laying around its worth a shot.

      Could be the PIP. the PIP is a hall sensor, or pickup. Depends on the terminology but its the same thing. If you need one, honestly I'd get a reman distributor. Unless you have a press to take the distributor apart and put it back together, you'll pay someone more to swap the pickup for you than a reman distributor will cost.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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        #4
        Ok I may not have done this right but this is what I did. I put my light tester to the green wire and with the key turned on it lit up. I started the car (cold now) it started the light flashed four times and burned out the bulb. I have it warming up now and gonna look for a new bulb too lol. So it looses spark hot. I do know all my trouble started after I replaced the coil. The one in it now Probably only has 20 miles on it if that. I also noticed the top radiator hose was touching the coil so that may be a contributing factor to it getting hot too. I zip tied it back a hair so it wasn't touching it.

        Jeremy

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          #5
          Ok one more thing. I checked voltage to the coil. Both sides show 12+ volts. I unplugged the connector and got 12 volts form only one side. Still no spark. Is this normal? Oh and I tried checking spark with a screwdriver from the coil itself and no spark so that eliminates the cable from the equation. I still have to find a bulb for my test light. Doing that now.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by jubylives View Post
            Ok one more thing. I checked voltage to the coil. Both sides show 12+ volts. I unplugged the connector and got 12 volts form only one side. Still no spark. Is this normal? Oh and I tried checking spark with a screwdriver from the coil itself and no spark so that eliminates the cable from the equation. I still have to find a bulb for my test light. Doing that now.
            12 Volts on both sides indicate no ground. You won't have a ground unless the car is cranking. The light flashing before indicates that the coil did have the proper ground as the engine was cranking. When the engine gets hot, the TFI module is probably junk.

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              #7
              Changed out the distributor for the original one that I had a new pick up put in. It's running right now but I'm not holding my breath. There is a relay on the driver side with a brown plug. It gets warm. Should this critter get warm? Its over by the fuel pump relay.

              Jeremy

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