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removing stuck crank pulley?

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    #1

    removing stuck crank pulley?

    I've got underdrive pulleys to put on (protip: the March waterpump pulley is not only the same diameter as stock for 5.8s, but has a different bolt pattern), but last time I just couldn't get the ancient crank pulley off. My pulley puller was a bit too small, but it failed. I hit it from every angle repeatedly with a rubber mallet, and that failed. I pried from every angle I could find with a pry bar and that failed. I really am out of ideas that don't seem like they'll mess up the damper or crank bearings or something.

    So let's hear how people have dealt with this issue.

    Step one: remove belt and the 4 bolts

    Step two: ???

    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
    Tags: None
    #2
    the pulley shouldn't be that difficult... i would suggest a better puller or a bigger hammer.

    maybe soak the area with pb blaster?
    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

    Comment

      #3
      both the front/inside and backside have been completely soaked in penetrating oil multiple times over the course of a couple weeks.


      You think I'll be safe using a non-rubber hammer? I don't wanna bend or damage anything. Part of it is I'm worried that if I again have to give up and run the original pulley (this is a daily driver) I'll have bent the crap out of it and throw a belt or damage the damper or something.

      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

      Comment

        #4
        step two= remove the big center bolt
        ---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
        ---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My Toy

        Comment

          #5
          the big center bolt has to come off for the pulley (not the damper) to come off?

          Or are you suggesting I have to bit the bullet and pull the damper and work on separating them on the bench?


          Just so there's no mixups, I'm trying to remove/install exactly (besides colour) the upper right pulley in this picture, nothing more.


          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

          Comment

            #6
            pb blaster and a bigger hammer

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment

              #7
              Ahhh, yes I was thinking of the wrong pulley then.

              What I do when pulleys fight like that is:
              1. Put peice of cardboard in front of raidator (or condensor, if your have radiator removed) for prrotection.
              2. Put pulley puller on said pulley, crank down on it so it has tension.
              3. Hit said pulley with BFH.
              4. be prepared for a "BANG" when the pulley flings off.

              Have fun
              ---1990 Lincon LSC., 5.0 H.O., 55,000 ORIG. miles, 3:73 Posi, Bullit rims, 3G alt., 2.5" full-back exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, Flowmaster mufflers. My DD
              ---1985 Grand Marquis 2-door., Fresh 5.0, slick-top, GT40P's, 1.7 RR's, FRPP headers, 3G alt., Weiand Stealth intake, 650 cfm holley, 2.5" side-exit exhaust, Mark 8 elec. fan, 3:55 Posi, Bucket seats, custom center console. My Toy

              Comment

                #8
                sweet, I now have confidence that a BFH is safe.

                Good tips with the cardboard and using the puller in combination with the hammer. I'll try that this weekend.

                85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                Comment

                  #9
                  Beat the shit out of that thing, the bolt in the center don't have to come out.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    prob got a rust ring holding it on. Make sure you clean the front of the balancer up good before you put the new one on. I'd also give it a good look while its accessible. If the rubber is cracked and pushing out, it should be replaced.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment

                      #11
                      When I've had a stubborn pulley I usually get the puller as tight on there as I can, then hit the end of the threaded bolt on the puller. Bastard usually pops off of there.
                      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                      Comment

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