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    #1

    dropping oil pan/ removing pump? (just a couple questions)

    As suspect #1 in my low oil pressure, I just need to stop guessing and pull the old pump and see what's what.

    I did this once before, had it on a lift, removed the front two motor mount bolts, jacked the engine up a few inches, dropped the pan a few inches, gave me the access I needed to R&R the pump.

    At the time the upper intake was not on.
    I know there's not whole lotta room between the intake and the firewall;

    I just want to double check, when I do this again, do I need to mess with the top of the engine at all? Remove any tv cables, pull any upper intakes, or will the engine crank/angle up just fine without anything bumping into anything else?

    I don't need to jack the transmission, correct? It can just angle on its mount?


    thanks!
    And, how long did this take you?
    I remember it taking 2 hours, but without a lift, it might take me longer.
    Maybe I can convince a friend at a shop to accept 2 hours labor to do it for me; book value is 5.8 hrs though and I just don't have that kind of money.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
    As suspect #1 in my low oil pressure, I just need to stop guessing and pull the old pump and see what's what.

    I did this once before, had it on a lift, removed the front two motor mount bolts, jacked the engine up a few inches, dropped the pan a few inches, gave me the access I needed to R&R the pump.

    At the time the upper intake was not on.
    I know there's not whole lotta room between the intake and the firewall;

    I just want to double check, when I do this again, do I need to mess with the top of the engine at all? Remove any tv cables, pull any upper intakes, or will the engine crank/angle up just fine without anything bumping into anything else?

    I don't need to jack the transmission, correct? It can just angle on its mount?


    thanks!
    And, how long did this take you?
    I remember it taking 2 hours, but without a lift, it might take me longer.
    Maybe I can convince a friend at a shop to accept 2 hours labor to do it for me; book value is 5.8 hrs though and I just don't have that kind of money.
    Pull the upper intake as a unit. That means, leave the egr and throttle body attached. unbolt the throttle linkages and tv cable. If you don't damage the plenum gasket, you can reuse it. I've done it in the past and have not had any problems. Unbolt fan and fan shroud. If you're not removing the pan from under the engine, then the radiator can stay in. Remove hood. Jack car up a decent amount, put jackstands under it. Get it as high as you safely can. You're gonna be under there, and you're gonna want to get as much room as you can. unbolt motor mount bolts. Hoist up engine as high as you can without lifting the car. I had to jack up on pan of trans (with a block of wood between jack and trans) to get as much space as possible.
    Make sure you put the gaskets in between the pump and block, and between the pump and screen.

    Comment

      #3
      why unbolt the fan and fan shroud?

      why remove the hood (just raising it isn't enough?)

      I was just trying to refigure that out the other day: the tv cable and throttle linkages, they just pop off if I pry with a bit of force, right?

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
        why unbolt the fan and fan shroud?

        why remove the hood (just raising it isn't enough?)

        I was just trying to refigure that out the other day: the tv cable and throttle linkages, they just pop off if I pry with a bit of force, right?
        Because you'll hit the shroud with the fan and potentially break something.

        What are you planning on lifting the engine with? I used a tree, a cherry picker will need room to lift the engine also.

        Tv cable, you're is a 90 right? There should be a bobby pin like thing you undo, then the cable comes down, remove the bushing, and keep them somewhere you won't lose them.

        The throttle cable unclips. Prying straight down should release it.

        2 10mm bolts in the back remove the bracket from the EGR spacer.

        Comment

          #5
          ah, got it. I was going to put a jack under the harmonic balancer to prop it up that way-- which would mean not having to lift the hood, though, removing the hood is only 15 minutes anyway. No big deal one way or the other.
          Shoulda thought about the fan. When I redid my pump (and I'm still hoping, badly), the fan wasn't in yet-- so that didn't come up!

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
            ah, got it. I was going to put a jack under the harmonic balancer to prop it up that way-- which would mean not having to lift the hood, though, removing the hood is only 15 minutes anyway. No big deal one way or the other.
            Shoulda thought about the fan. When I redid my pump (and I'm still hoping, badly), the fan wasn't in yet-- so that didn't come up!
            Let me ask you a question, did you lift the engine from the harmonic balancer the last time you did this?

            Comment

              #7
              :jawdrop:
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

              Comment

                #8
                That is a very good question.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment

                  #9
                  yeah, really not a good idea to support the engine from the balancer. Bad for the balancer for one thing, but the crankshaft and the bearings were not intended to support the weight of the motor. You could possibly bend the crank or damage the bearing.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
                    I was going to put a jack under the harmonic balancer to prop it up that way-- !
                    What. That is not, in anyway, shape or form, any type of lifting point.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment

                      #11
                      just take out the wiper motor,fan and you should have enough room to raise motor.put lift under trans bell housing and lift as high as you can and get some 4x4 blocks to use under motor mounts to rest on thats all i did

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Might just use an engine support bar for the next go around, that way I can put it up on the lift. Cheaper than an engine crane too; harbor freight has one for $60 now.
                        Actually, I've never used a support bar, does it end up resting on the body work on either side, and would it start to crush the sheet metal to lift the engine that way?

                        Yes, I did lift it by the balancer the last time-- and under the direct supervision of a mechanic/instructor I'll add, he told me that the balancer was fine.... *sigh*
                        I guess I won't do it again-- are the chances of having already damaged anything very high?
                        Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 07-01-2011, 11:28 PM.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
                          I guess I won't do it again-- are the chances of having already damaged anything very high?
                          Yes if you left it supported by that.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            just the engine, not the car.
                            Any way to know?

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Pull the engine apart and measure the crank. Like Gadget said, it's not designed to handle that much weight.

                              Comment

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