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    replacing motor mounts

    I know now that replacing the trans mount is fairly easy, but how about the motor mounts?


    How is it done? I know it's just a matter of taking the weight off the mounts and unbuttoning them but how do you properly do this?


    Doesn't seem to me the oil pan wouldn't hold any weight if you tried to support it from underneath; do you string it up to a hoist or frame as if you're pulling the motor?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    As far as I know you just need an engine hoist or a strong tree/A-frame and a come-along. Hook it up to the lift point and lift it just enough to support it and remove bolts, maybe lift a little more and remove mounts.

    I need to do this as well, in order to replace freeze plugs. seems fairly straight forward.

    Comment


      #3
      its theoretically straightforward, but its kind of a bastard to do. supporting the engine and removing the engine side brackets is easy. a 2x4 on the jack under the front of the oil pan is all you need, then just undo the 4 bolts holding the brackets to the motor, and the single bolt holding the bracket to the mount. The fun part is removing the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the frame. They are accessed through the openings for the lower control arm bushings, and its not a straight shot. Its possible with flex sockets and such, but it really sucks. If you have plans to replace the lower control arm bushings, do the mounts while the arm is out. It takes like 15 minutes with the arm out, and easily 3x that with the arm in.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Long ass extension and a swivel 13mm socket will get the job done. Lift the engine from the mounts by what Thain said. Have fun... Been there done that, it sucks.

        Comment


          #5
          What they said
          I had a friend help me, The worst bolt at the most awkward angle under the control arm, I just held in place while my friend swapped out the mounts, so I wouldn't have to find the hole again.

          If you have any sort of access to a shop, everything's always easier with a lift!
          But honestly, mine from 1990 weren't that bad. So maybe consider if you really need 'em.

          Comment


            #6
            I don't really need them, but they're certainly not brand new. I don't think they're OEM because by now the motor should be rocking all over the place and it is not.


            Transmission mount definitely needs to go, though. I have a feeling that the bad trans mount is not doing any favors for the motor mounts.
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              mine were 20-yr-old OEM, and, they really weren't bad at all. I just sort of assumed they WOULD be, and added new mounts to my overhaul project list, but after doing them and examining the old ones, the old rubber was neither cracked nor jell-o: they were fine.

              Comment


                #8
                trans mount is quite easy (as you've maybe examined and seen for yourself), so no reason not to

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                  I don't really need them, but they're certainly not brand new. I don't think they're OEM because by now the motor should be rocking all over the place and it is not.


                  Transmission mount definitely needs to go, though. I have a feeling that the bad trans mount is not doing any favors for the motor mounts.
                  Well mine were original and they were ok. I did not however a higher sitting engine after the swap. Why? I think the mounts were smooshed a little. I did not feel any hopping of engines. Or any evidence of such.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    the way the mount is designed, about all that really happens is the motor sinks down towards the frame. They can't break loose and try to go through the hood like a Chrysler or something. Its a damn good thing too, because if they broke as often as those craptastic Chrysler smallblock mounts did, all of us would be driving around with chains holding the motor down.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
                      '79 Continental Town Car
                      '90 Crown Victoria LTD
                      '94 Crown Victoria

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                        Well mine were original and they were ok. I did not however a higher sitting engine after the swap. Why? I think the mounts were smooshed a little. I did not feel any hopping of engines. Or any evidence of such.

                        If I have the hood open when I crank the engine, you can see the motor shake a little bit, but that's kind of what they do.
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                          If I have the hood open when I crank the engine, you can see the motor shake a little bit, but that's kind of what they do.
                          & there is no contact between the fan and the shroud...doesn't look like it's leaning either, i just assumed the motor mounts would be as easy to do as the transmission mount
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If you don't need them don't bother, one of the more frustrating parts I've ever swapped on a car and that was with the engine out. If you have the control arms out at some point do it then, piece of cake at that point.


                            1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
                            1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
                            1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My engine jumps a bit with brandy new mounts. It also torques a nice deal when shifted into reverse or drive. All drivetrain mounts (besides rear control arm bushings) are new.

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