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oil pressure regulator? (on f150 w/ 302)

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    oil pressure regulator? (on f150 w/ 302)

    Hey--
    Buddy of mine has a 1991 f150, same vintage as my grand marq, and same engine block, the 302. Probably the same transmission.

    He has an oil gauge proper, not the idiot switch, and it's reading low. Not naught, which is very good of course, but once the engine comes to life the needle swings just a little ways, too low to even enter the "normal" range. 180,000 miles btw.

    Now, when I sit in the car and give it some gas, the oil pressure does not move, does not increase.

    I have some options:

    a) sending unit itself, although it is registering something, just not enough.

    b) wire to the sending unit, dirtied or high-res fault eating voltage

    c) how does the pressure regulator work? There is one, right? That is to say, when you're at 500rpm pressure might be 20psi, when you're at 1000rpm pressure might double to 40psi, but when you're at 4000rpm pressure stays at 40psi. Fictional but plausible numbers there. There's a valve that regulates and releases pressure so it never rises above what's sufficient? So... I'm wondering where this regulator is, and how it works, and ultimately wondering if a bad regulator could end up keeping pressure down too low? This comes to mind just because revving the engine does not result in proportionally higher pressure. If straight up worn main bearings were the cause, pressure should rise correct?

    d) despite the musings of c), which is my real question here since I just don't know about how pressure is regulated, perhaps it is just worn rods and mains, a worn-out pump that's not holding pressure, or even a popped galley plug.

    #2
    Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
    There is one, right?
    Never heard of it... sounds like something a modular motor might have, if anything.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    Comment


      #3
      I'm not aware of an oil pressure regulator, but I'm not aware of many things. It doesn't exist on any 302 I've seen.


      *worn bearings = low oil pressure.




      * - too much clearance between the bearing and the crank/rods, whatever the cause. a poorly assembled new motor could have problems
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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        #4
        The only pressure regulator I can think of is in the pump. And that is supposed to bleed off excess pressure. There is no external regulator. Is the engine knocking?

        Comment


          #5
          oh, ok-- so the pump itself has a built-in check valve?
          I figured something of the sort must logically exist.

          Nope, sounds like a truck engine should. Friend was just worried about it.
          I'll tell him to change out the sending unit and see if that's all it was.
          If a new $10 unit --and cleaning the electrical lead, too, of course-- still reads low, and/or if an external gauge to check it with reads low, then the only thing left is a worn-out engine or worn-out pump. Maybe just drive it 'till it dies, make preparations for a new truck or a donor engine.

          Comment


            #6
            lucas and drive it till it blows up
            sigpic


            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

            Comment


              #7
              Don't put no additives in the oil. Drive it till it dies. If it starts to knock, go up to a higher viscosity oil.

              Comment


                #8
                If the pressure is low, it would be worth trying a new oil pump, if the pan isn't a huge pita to drop.
                I'd verify with a tester gauge, the gauges in the clusters can act up too.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #9
                  Before I lost 4.5/5 quarts on I95, my Lopo with a new oil pump was a steady 50psi @ hot idle in drive.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                    Don't put no additives in the oil. Drive it till it dies. If it starts to knock, go up to a higher viscosity oil.
                    I was just kidding, hence the blowing up part. Sorry!
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #11
                      are you sure that isn't one of the idiot gauges thats either 0 or normal, and not actually a pressure gauge? Hook a real tester to it to verify what its got. Sometime in the 90s, the pressure gauge stopped being a gauge and started being a fancy looking idiot light.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        are you sure that isn't one of the idiot gauges thats either 0 or normal, and not actually a pressure gauge? Hook a real tester to it to verify what its got. Sometime in the 90s, the pressure gauge stopped being a gauge and started being a fancy looking idiot light.
                        I'm pretty sure it was earlier than the 90s. I thought they were doing it in their 80s trucks. Anyway, the story is that most Ford oil pressure gauges are actually not a gauge at all. It is a gauge that is wired to an oil pressure switch like would normally be hooked to an idiot light. If the switch is closed, the oil pressure gauge reads right in the middle. If the switch is open, the gauge drops into the warning area. The switch closes above 6 or so psi. In the OP's case, I would be thinking about bad switch grounding.
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                        Comment


                          #13
                          well, if its the idiot gauge thing, the resistor could have drifted in value. THats a common thing with electronics. Either way, I'd be using a real gauge to see what is going on with the motor and not relying on the stock instrumentation. I had a Dodge that the pressure gauge suddenly dropped to 0 while driving. Testing with a real gauge gave me 60 psi, so the actual problem was the gauge sender. Scared the hell out of me when it suddenly dropped like a rock tho.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yeah, those gauges are as accurate as the idiot light. Put a real gauge on it.

                            My old ho converted lopo with 250K had 0 psi at idle and was fairly quiet. Ran like a raped ape. And that was with an Autolite mechanical gauge.
                            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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