lower intake gasket or head gasket?

[1990LTD]

I thought I saw fuel on the ground but wasn't really losing any and type F looks a lot like fuel when it's in a puddle of water, and my PS pressure hose has a small leak so I figured that was it...I just found a leak (actually an oil leak) at the front of the motor behind the water pump - Looks like it pooled a little bit at the top behind the water pump.


Car has a few miles on it so it's fully expected and allowed to burn at least a little bit of oil, with that said; All of my fluids are good but today I could actually see oil dripping for the first time so it's got to be at least partly oil. The oil made its way down the side of the block and appears to be dripping from in front of the pressure sender (it's clearly coming from above and not leaking from the pressure sender)


All of my fuel lines under the hood look dry...injectors and fuel rail (that i can see with the plenum still attached) are dry. FPR is dry and no fuel smell, which would be the biggest tell for me that I've got a fuel leak.

It doesn't look like it's coming from the heads because it's not wet anywhere that they join the motor, just in behind the water pump there, HOWEVER, I saw a small fleck of coolant on the front of the d/s cylinder head.



evidence:

I'm not losing coolant whatsoever. Found that fleck of coolant on the front of the cylinder head but there has been none lost that I can discern.

I'm losing oil and it's pooled behind the water pump. Found some on the ground today and actually saw it dripping while the car ran and I poked around.

I do not suspect a fuel leak; no fuel smell and fuel delivery system seems dry; car is running a bit more rich than it should because I still haven't installed my new o2 sensors. However, it LOOKS like fuel on the ground when it's fallen somewhere wet. It hasn't been dry in literally weeks so I don't know what it actually looks like before it hits water.


I am not opposed to tearing the motor apart and putting new gaskets on because it will give me the excuse to put my cam and big injectors in; I however will have to stick with my E6s because I don't have access to anything better at the moment.

[1990LTD]

also; I realize it could be something besides the intake or head gasket. leaking old timing cover gasket? anyway, i'll replace every gasket that touches oil on the front end of the motor at some point.

[gadget73]

front of the intake or the distributor O ring is my guess.

[1990LTD]

Since I can't seem to buy one without the other I'll do both


Anything else I should replace while I'm in there besides

intake gaskets, dizzy o ring
timing set/cover gaskets
water pump (it's only a few months old)
fuel injector o rings

?


I'm going to put my new cam and fuel injectors in it while it's apart.

[1990LTD]

FEL-PRO Part # MS93334 Set
Lower set; Upper set incl.

Engine : Timing Set
CLOYES Part # C3057X High Performance Heavy Duty Timing Set
Base; 3 Keyway Crank Sprocket; Incl. Cam Sprocket; Double Roller Chain; Heavy Duty Timing Set

Engine : Timing Cover Gasket Set
FEL-PRO Part # TCS45449
w/o Sleeve 'N' SealŪ; Eng. w/one-piece oil pan gskt. must be used w/OS 34508R; Water pump to plate gskts. not incl.





My oil pan and gasket are only about a year old...can I get away without touching them? I've never been into the motor this far, I don't know if I need to unbolt the pan to mess with the timing cover gasket. The pan gasket is one piece felpro, FWIW.

Is that all of the shit I should need? I'm gonna do motor and trans mounts too but getting them locally...I'll buy the injector O rings locally too

[86VickyLX]

Since I can't seem to buy one without the other I'll do both


Anything else I should replace while I'm in there besides

intake gaskets, dizzy o ring
timing set/cover gaskets
water pump (it's only a few months old)
fuel injector o rings

?


I'm going to put my new cam and fuel injectors in it while it's apart.

Got a computer for it?

The 3 keyway kit sounds like a performance (cam advance/retarding) set.

[1990LTD]

dx3 computer. wish i could use a tweecer but i'm using what i got.

[86VickyLX]

You don't need no stinkin tweecer, unless you're having problems with how it's running.

[87_crown_vic]

sounds like you made the timing cover gasket pissed by replacing the water pump... when that was changed, the timing cover gasket probly popped open... had this issue on my 2 door CV i had... it leaked from the passage that goes thru it from the pump

[1990LTD]

probably. do i need a new water pump gasket now?


can i leave the oil pan and gasket in place to do this?


water pump gasket, timing set, timing cover gasket set, intake gaskets, injector o rings - am i forgetting anything? gonna place my order ASAP. gonna replace the ECT and ACT while i'm at it but that's beside the point.


water pump, thermostat/gasket, bypass hose etc are new

[1990LTD]

also it's definitely not coming from the base of the distributor. damn thing.


this is really the only serious leak i've had to deal with besides the cork valve cover gaskets i cursed myself with a while back. shouldn't complain since it's got over 200k and nobody has been into the motor further than the upper intake plenum and valve covers.

my order thusfar...

Air Temperature Sensor
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AX3 {#38541587, D4AF12A697A, DY264, DY304, DY670, DY674, DYE701, E0AE12A697AA, E0AZ12A697A, E1AF12A697AA, E1AZ12A697A, E4AF12A697A, E4AF12A697AA, E4AF12A697BA, E7AF12A697AA, E7AZ12A697A, EOAZ12A697A, F1AZ12A697A, F1AZ12A697B, F2AZ12A697A, F2DF12A697AA, F2DZ12A697A, F32F12A697AA, F32Z12A697B, F32Z12A697C, F42Z12A697A, FS1518845A, ZZL118845, ZZM018845, ZZM118845}

: Temperature Sender
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TX6 {#250791B020, 38541595, 9U2Z12A648A, D94Y12A648, E0AZ12A648A, E1AZ12A648A, F1AZ12A648B, F2AZ12A648A, F4TZ12A648A}

Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PR15 {#CM4643, CM4646, CM4664, CM4711, CM4748, CM4764, E3EE9C968AA, E3EE9C968AB, E3FZ9C968A, E3FZ9C968AA, E5AE9C968AA, E5AE9C968AB, E5AZ9C968A, E6AE9C968A, E6AE9C968AA, E6AE9C968AB, E6AE9C968CA, E6AE9C968DA, E6AZ9C968A, E6EE9C968A2A, E6EE9C968AA, E6FZ9C968A, E77E9C968AA, E7DE9C968AA, E7DE9C968BA, E7EE9C968A, E7EE9C968AA, E7FZ9C968A, E7TZ9C968A, E8DZ9C968A, F3DZ9C968B, F3LY9C968E, F4CE9C968AA, F4CZ9C968A, ZZM013280, ZZM313280}

PCV Valve / Crankcase Ventilation Grommet
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # GV28 {#E6AZ6A892A}

PCV Valve
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # V201 {#D8ZE6A666A1B, D8ZE6A666A2B, D8ZE6A666AA, D92Z6A666A, D9ZZ6A666A, E0TE6A666AA, EV111, EV98, EV98A, EV98B, EV98BDP}

Water Pump Gasket
FEL-PRO Part # 35211
Plate to Block

Intake Manifold Gasket
FEL-PRO Part # MS93334 Set
Lower set; Upper set incl.

Timing Cover Gasket Set
FEL-PRO Part # TCS45449
w/o Sleeve 'N' SealŪ; Eng. w/one-piece oil pan gskt. must be used w/OS 34508R; Water pump to plate gskts. not incl.

: Timing Set
SEALED POWER Part # KT3163SA1 Timing Set - 3 Pc.
3 Piece Set; Incl. double rlr. type chain; .900" thick cam sprocket hub; (1) 222-163; (1) 223-531; (1) 223-612

Crankcase Breather Element
DORMAN Part # 47064 {#E6ZZ6A631B}

[1990LTD]

also, I know the temperature sender and ECT are two different things but rockauto has them both listed under 'temperature sender' - the pic is very clearly the ECT. i replace the PCV shit whenever my intake plenum comes off.

i need an egr valve soon-ish as well, my intake plenum paint started to darken/burn along the front where the EGR passage runs, same with the valve itself where it mates together there. getting that elsewhere though

[1990LTD]

and if I did happen to have a set of E7s laying around...would I need anything besides head gaskets in addition to the stuff I already mentioned? Do head gaskets come in pairs or are they singles?

[P72Ford]

In order to remove the timing cover, you have to remove some bolts for the oil pan. Some of the pan bolts actually thread into the cover. With a newer one piece gasket, you may be able to loosen some of the pan bolts and cheat the cover dowel pins out, without ruining the gasket.

The 3 keyway timing set would be fine. If you found a cheaper 1 keyway set, then use that. With the 3 keyway, you should really degree the cam to decided whether you're going to stay dot to dot, advance 4 degrees, or retard 4 degrees.

I also noticed the other day that there is a water pump/ timing cover bolt kit available, affordably. Might not be a bad idea, especially if your bolts are original. I wish I'd seen it before, for my car. My bolts were fine, but for the price, it was hardly worth cleaning them.

[1990LTD]

thank you. i didn't do the oil pan job but the guy that did will be helping me with this one.

how long do you figure it would take to tear it down to the block, install new cam and reassemble with new parts?

i am going to have the cylinder heads checked by a machine shop (gotta find one..do they all do this?) to make sure there's no warpage and to see if they're not cracked. came off of a "low mile 93 that didn't smoke" - what should i do to these heads before installing? if i can get away with absolutely nothing, that is exactly what i'll do.

new head bolts: yay or nay? if i can reuse them, that is most awesome. i am doing this on the cheap. real cheap.