Car stalling on hard left turn of the steering.

[gopiqpp]

My 89 CP has recently started stalling if I lock the steering into a hard left turn. Usually happens after the car is hot after slow traffic driving in summer and when I 'm doing lock-to-lock turns of the steering as during parking. Once it stalls it doesn't start immediately and only makes a loud click coming from the starter motor. After a couple of minutes it starts normally.The battery is in good condition with a green indicator window.

[zoomie]

check starter solonoid would be my first place to check.

[sly]

make sure the battery is not shifting around. the positive battery terminal may be shorting against the fender.

edit: re-read that... so it's slow speed stuffs. may also be a battery with a weak cell or battery terminals gone to crap.

[86VickyLX]

My 89 CP has recently started stalling if I lock the steering into a hard left turn. Usually happens after the car is hot after slow traffic driving in summer and when I 'm doing lock-to-lock turns of the steering as during parking. Once it stalls it doesn't start immediately and only makes a loud click coming from the starter motor. After a couple of minutes it starts normally.The battery is in good condition with a green indicator window.

Just a heads up (if we're talking about the indicator in the battery), that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good battery.

I've had this problem with my car. Normally would happen with the ac on when hot. The fix was cleaning the IAC. I also checked to make sure that the idle was within spec with IAC unplugged (basically I verified timing at 10 degrees before top dead center with SPOUT connector disconnected, and then I hooked up a tach to make sure idle was between 650 and 850 by adjusting the screw on the throttle body). Once that was done, I adjusted the TPS voltage to .9V at idle.

The hard starting sounds like a tired old starter motor.

[1990LTD]

Just a heads up (if we're talking about the indicator in the battery), that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good battery.

I've had this problem with my car. Normally would happen with the ac on when hot. The fix was cleaning the IAC. I also checked to make sure that the idle was within spec with IAC unplugged (basically I verified timing at 10 degrees before top dead center with SPOUT connector disconnected, and then I hooked up a tach to make sure idle was between 650 and 850 by adjusting the screw on the throttle body). Once that was done, I adjusted the TPS voltage to .9V at idle.

When you adjust the TPS, do you do it key-on when you're verifying the voltage? Or does the car need to be running?

[86VickyLX]

When you adjust the TPS, do you do it key-on when you're verifying the voltage? Or does the car need to be running?

Just need the key in run, the voltage regulator in the computer for reference voltage will keep the reading stable. Probe the green wire with your positive voltmeter lead, and ground with your negative lead (I recommend a digital meter if possible, since they're easier to read).

[1990LTD]

thank you sir!

[gadget73]

The random click with no cranking is possibly just a bad connection at the starter or one of the battery cables. Or the starter is getting weak. When they get hot, they get weak. Since you live in a hot climate, you may be better off converting the car to a later style gear reduction starter for improved torque. They are also smaller, so there is a little more room between the starter and exhaust pipe.

[1990LTD]

Just need the key in run, the voltage regulator in the computer for reference voltage will keep the reading stable. Probe the green wire with your positive voltmeter lead, and ground with your negative lead (I recommend a digital meter if possible, since they're easier to read).

how do you properly probe a wire, anyway? dinner first?


EDIT: i understand the general concept, but i'd like to preserve the insulation on the wires. could i jab unbent paperclips into them and touch the multimeter contacts to them?

[sly]

if you have the fat needle type probes, you can generally probe harnesses through the rubber cap where the wires go in. just wedge the probe into the hole with the wire you want to probe. unbent paperclips however can make this immensely easier.

[86VickyLX]

Back probe the connector. Either by means of a paper clip or the actual voltmeter leads.

[1990LTD]

Yeah my voltmeter has the pointy leads but I think they'd still be too big for the wires, especially when paperclips would work just as well. thanks.



</thread hijack>

[gopiqpp]

Just a heads up (if we're talking about the indicator in the battery), that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good battery.

I've had this problem with my car. Normally would happen with the ac on when hot. The fix was cleaning the IAC. I also checked to make sure that the idle was within spec with IAC unplugged (basically I verified timing at 10 degrees before top dead center with SPOUT connector disconnected, and then I hooked up a tach to make sure idle was between 650 and 850 by adjusting the screw on the throttle body). Once that was done, I adjusted the TPS voltage to .9V at idle.

The hard starting sounds like a tired old starter motor.

Thanks. Will replace my starter motor then, and make sure the battery restraints and terminals are tight, and will clean the IAC.

[91waggin]

Yeah my voltmeter has the pointy leads but I think they'd still be too big for the wires, especially when paperclips would work just as well. thanks.



</thread hijack>

Use the pointy end of safety pins. Much better on skinny wires. Use some alligator clip test leads from radio shack and you'll leave the insulation on the wires almost completely unscathed.