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Having issues with my wagon

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    Having issues with my wagon

    Ok here is the scoop... My 1989 Colony park is having surging issues. My engine is the 5.0 efi monster but every time I start it and even on long runs it doesn't like to idle sometimes and even stalls when I come to lights. I cleaned out the IAC valve twice already and recently cleaned a whole bunch of black out of the upper plenum but it still surges! I almost have to double foot the brake to keep it from jumping at a stop. Is this still a IAC valve issue or is this a torque converter issue?

    Any help will be appreciated!
    =====_____
    /__l_l_,\____\,___
    l_(o)l_l__l(o)[o]llllll[o]

    #2
    Originally posted by Bowser1989 View Post
    Ok here is the scoop... My 1989 Colony park is having surging issues. My engine is the 5.0 efi monster but every time I start it and even on long runs it doesn't like to idle sometimes and even stalls when I come to lights. I cleaned out the IAC valve twice already and recently cleaned a whole bunch of black out of the upper plenum but it still surges! I almost have to double foot the brake to keep it from jumping at a stop. Is this still a IAC valve issue or is this a torque converter issue?

    Any help will be appreciated!
    Scan it for codes.

    Comment


      #3
      Yes do a koeo and koer test. Instructions can be found here. Report back to us with codes.

      Things that might cause this problem:
      IAC
      TPS
      MAP
      Originally posted by gadget73
      There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
      91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
      93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
      Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
      Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
      95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

      Comment


        #4
        Um where can I go to get it scanned cause Advance won't do it cause they don't have the right connector and everywhere else wants to charge me. Should I still do the second route?
        =====_____
        /__l_l_,\____\,___
        l_(o)l_l__l(o)[o]llllll[o]

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Bowser1989 View Post
          Um where can I go to get it scanned cause Advance won't do it cause they don't have the right connector and everywhere else wants to charge me. Should I still do the second route?
          http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 Scan it yourself.

          Comment


            #6
            Sad when people who ought to know can't tell someone to connect a jumper wire and count flashes.

            Your Haynes manual also tells how to do this, IIRC, and also has a handy reference chart. You do have a Haynes manual, right?
            2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

            Comment


              #7
              Or I spelled it out in the link on my previous post. Since you have an 89 with a yellow CEL in the dashboard, all you need is a paperclip, pen and paper.
              Originally posted by gadget73
              There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
              91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
              93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
              Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
              Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
              95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

              Comment


                #8
                Ok cool I'll have to do that this weekend. I do have a haynes manual I just never thought to look to see how to get codes from it lol. I always assumed it would be the OBD1 ford specific connector or something. The other symptom is if I slightly put on the gas it dives on its face almost stalls then picks up and goes. It doesn't do that if I go into the pedal halfway or full off of the line. The engine is having issues overall apparently the oil pan gasket is leaking big time and I'm not looking forward to have to lift then engine up just to drop the pan enough to get my fat fingers in between the mess... but I still love the old girl!
                =====_____
                /__l_l_,\____\,___
                l_(o)l_l__l(o)[o]llllll[o]

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Bowser1989 View Post
                  Ok cool I'll have to do that this weekend. I do have a haynes manual I just never thought to look to see how to get codes from it lol. I always assumed it would be the OBD1 ford specific connector or something. The other symptom is if I slightly put on the gas it dives on its face almost stalls then picks up and goes. It doesn't do that if I go into the pedal halfway or full off of the line. The engine is having issues overall apparently the oil pan gasket is leaking big time and I'm not looking forward to have to lift then engine up just to drop the pan enough to get my fat fingers in between the mess... but I still love the old girl!
                  It is a ford specific connector, but all you need to do is ground the STI connector that's pictured in the link I posted. Chapter 6 of your haynes manual will cover this too. It will also have the code meanings as well.

                  I've done the oil pan in the car. It sucked, but it got done, while I was in there it got a new oil pump. I'd recommend you replace the PCV valve, grommet and screen. Since I'm willing to be that the screen is clogged. Make sure it's not leaking from another place valve covers are known to leak, as well as intake manifolds.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Bowser1989 View Post
                    Ok cool I'll have to do that this weekend. I do have a haynes manual I just never thought to look to see how to get codes from it lol. I always assumed it would be the OBD1 ford specific connector or something. The other symptom is if I slightly put on the gas it dives on its face almost stalls then picks up and goes. It doesn't do that if I go into the pedal halfway or full off of the line. The engine is having issues overall apparently the oil pan gasket is leaking big time and I'm not looking forward to have to lift then engine up just to drop the pan enough to get my fat fingers in between the mess... but I still love the old girl!
                    I'm gonna guess here and say that you need a new throttle position sensor. Once you get codes, that will probably point us in the right direction. Love the ASCII art in your sig, btw.
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Regarding the oil pan gasket: not too bad for just the long pieces of cork. Undo motor mounts, lift the engine up a couple inches, tranny can be left alone.
                      But there are also semicircular seals in front and back, and those I had a hell of a time strongarming into place, even with the engine upside down on an engine stand.

                      Might be easiest to take the engine out, then.
                      And hey, do a bunch of other stuff while you're at it! Anything old, rotting, leaking, rusting

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
                        Regarding the oil pan gasket: not too bad for just the long pieces of cork. Undo motor mounts, lift the engine up a couple inches, tranny can be left alone.
                        But there are also semicircular seals in front and back, and those I had a hell of a time strongarming into place, even with the engine upside down on an engine stand.

                        Might be easiest to take the engine out, then.
                        And hey, do a bunch of other stuff while you're at it! Anything old, rotting, leaking, rusting
                        I was thinking the same! lol but money right now is tight I did find a guy selling his engine for $500 but anyways...

                        Thanks for the compliment on the sig took some time to figure out lol.

                        I tried taking the codes off and I'm all confused and not at my house by my haynes manual this week.

                        I got // /// // /// // ///// /// /// /// ////// /// /// ///
                        =====_____
                        /__l_l_,\____\,___
                        l_(o)l_l__l(o)[o]llllll[o]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Probably wrong cause it's my first time so I'll try again tomorrow and be more precise on the timing and such
                          =====_____
                          /__l_l_,\____\,___
                          l_(o)l_l__l(o)[o]llllll[o]

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yes, try again. However it appears that the first code you've got there is a 23, which indicates throttle position sensor is a problem. Also a code 33, which means that your EGR valve isn't working. Here's a link to what all the codes mean:
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                            Comment


                              #15
                              get a short video if possible and we'll tell you what the codes are. sometimes the seperator blinks can make it confusing.
                              Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

                              Comment

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