crimped fuel line?

[BerniniCaCO3]

Hi!

Nearrrrrrrly done with my engine swap.
Among niggling details, the nylon hose on the FEED line (unfortunately) is badly crimped right past the quick disconnect. Maybe I did it pulling the old engine out? Maybe it's been that way. I prefer the latter thought even as the former is more probable.

Anyway-- ford-specializing prof insists that there is a way to slice that nylon line just past the crimped portion and slide the old line back up onto the quick disconnect nipple, BUT, that we lack the proper tool to do so. Maybe a ford stealership can and will do it... Hella cheaper than a new line, it's a long one, but, still, I'm broke.

I'm wondering, can I "uncrimp" it? I'm thinking like those clamps you put on electrical boxes, slide one around the fuel line and put pressure against the crimp.
Or even a tiny hose clamp, which should gently put more pressure at the sharp edges on the crimp and just open it up a little.

Is there much risk of cracking the line if I try either method?
And other ideas?


thanks!
-Bernard

[1987cp]

I wouldn't guess it's a good idea to keep using a nylon line that's been badly kinked.


The nylon lines I remember messing with are usually slid over a barb at the end of some steel hardline. My best understanding of the "proper" repair is boiling your new nylon line in water to soften it and then sliding it over the barbs on the hard section while hot .... also a good way to scald yourself and cuss a lot if you fail to do it properly (as I did).

Scott has mentioned more than once the concept of obtaining special high-pressure rubber fuel hose and just installing it with normal hose clamps to complete the repair on a SEFI supply line. That is, assuming your car is SEFI?


No idea what sort of special tool you might be talking about ..........

[BerniniCaCO3]

it is.
A tool that pushes the cut line over the barb. I'm not sure what was so special though.. right, I remember using a heat gun to soften line for a repair near the fuel filter on a friend's ranger.
Should I go ahead and try the hot water method on this feed line? Same stuff? Teacher seemed to think I needed the tool. I don't want to be left stranded, but I do prefer the idea of repairing it right: taking out the kink.

[1987cp]

I like the sound of a pushing-the-nylon-line-onto-the-barbed-line installation tool! I suppose if you're comfortable with a heat gun you could try that ... seems the boiling-water method was in the instructions for a replacement nylon line I bought at CarQuest, but as mentioned, my attempt to do it that way was full of fail and I scalded myself instead. I didn't have a heat gun at the time and seem to recall trying to use a torch, with melty and smoky results.

Granted, I have no idea what section of line you're talking about, but is there a reason why you don't want to save the trouble and use high-pressure rubber line?

[BerniniCaCO3]

no reason but ignorance: I just buy an adapter with barbs on both ends, join the rubber to the nylon, and the rubber to the quick disconnect?
This is on the front passenger side of the engine, comes up from next to the starter to the fuel rails.

[pantera77]

There is a special tool, I used it on my 91 Marq once. It worked good.

But I would just through some HP rubber on it myself.

[P72Ford]

Don't use worm clamps, as they may cut the high pressure line (if you go this route). I think they make clamps specifically for injected applications, which will not cut the line.

[1987cp]

Ah, yes, the little crimpy clamps specifically for fancypants fuel lines. Used some on the special gassing-your-ATV fuel tanks at the trailer plant to supply fuel to the onboard generators. We just crimped them with some end-nip type pliers that looked a lot like tile nippers.

OP, sounds like you're fiddling with the line that goes from the framerail to the fuel rails, no? What I'd do is PM Scott and see how he'd handle it. Also, see if you can get hold of a quick-disonnect that has barbs right on it so you can conveniently replace the entire bit of nylon line you have there. If you're going to be messing with trying to get nylon onto barbs, I'd forget the extra splicing and try to obtain a proper OE-style replacement for the damaged bit of line.

I don't suppose AZ has the pluggy-inny tool in question in their rental fleet?

[gadget73]

the plastic line is typically installed on barbs by getting it nice and hot, then jamming it in place. Instructions on repair kits say to stick the end in boiling water. I've heard of using a hair drier too, but you get very minimal working time with it.

[BerniniCaCO3]

Just made it to a computer.
I got it onto 2 of the 3 barbs mostly by hand.
Near-boiling water, held nicely in place by a transmission jack right at the right level-- still did nothing. I'd dip it for over a minute, no softer, cooled instantly.

Heat gun kinda worked... overused it and melted the line and had to cut back another 3/4" for a 2nd go around, hahaha.

Anyway, mostly sheer grunt force got it on 2 barbs.
Too late, used a worm screw :-(
If it holds for now, I will keep in mind just replacing the entire line, right, and then using crimp clamps. Didn't know about them.

thanks!
Let me know if you do find out what the proper installation tool is. Grunt force didn't get it ALL the way on.