smog/air pump deletion? shorter belt size after pump removal?

[BerniniCaCO3]

Hi!

I actually kinda believe in emissions, and I even ordered a new thermactor pipe for my engine build (old one was rusted right through).

But the fates are against me:
I had no idea, until just tonight when I went to move it onto the new engine, that gt40 heads had no provision for the thermactor
Hey, why didn't they ('96+ explorer heads) have it? Did they decide that preheating the heads was a useless idea, or did they have some other system?

Furthermore-- I'm fitting the dual exhast mod, with the mustang H-pipe. The spot where the fog pump blows into the cats is almost 2' further back and, well, just entirely different. I'd need to find some temperature-resistant silicone hose and a new check valve, or use the old check valve and find 2' of metal tubing and a way to bend it cleanly... or flexible steel tubing maybe in the plumbing section of home depot...?


It's getting to be too much of a pain.
I think I can pass emissions w/o smog, all they do is use the tailpipe sniffer, and everything will be hot by the time I get there. They don't look under the hood, and would never know it was missing. They do check for cats, but that's all.

I'll look at the geometry more closely tomorrow I suppose, but for those who have simply removed it-- do you leave the pump and bracket in place, just all the hoses torn off? Or remove the pump and use a shorter belt, it won't run into anything if it cuts across where the pump used to be?
If I can just remove the pump entirely and go with a shorter belt, what length belt did you use, exactly? Or model #? I'll go ahead and order that tomorrow: turns out amazon is far cheaper for belts than the local chains.


thanks!!
-Bernard

[1987cp]

56" seems typical for 302s; IIRC, I bought a 60" for my 351.

I wouldn't ever suggest buying a new-to-you belt length online, especially as folks can never even agree 100% on the right length for alternator belts. Your Advance/AZ/etc. counter folks should be happy to let you test-fit a belt or two to make sure your $20 is well spent. They should also have a belt-measurey thingy they can use to measure a string you've wrapped around the pulleys (I used this as a starting point on the 351).


Isn't all this stuff in a sticky somewhere, BTW? Scotty's had to comment on it often enough ....

[91waggin]

The smog pump can be removed, as can ALL associated plumbing. If you want to keep running the air conditioner, use a 560k6 belt. You may have to play with the tensioner a little bit; I seem to remember it worked if you put the belt on the other side of the tensioner pulley, but I could simply be crazy.

If there are no holes on the back of the heads, you don't even need to worry about closing them. If you've got cats with pipes running to them, cut the pipes off a few inches out from the cat, pinch them closed with a pair of pliers, and weld them shut. Remove all other associated plumbing. As long as they don't do a visual check for the smog pump system, and you have a functioning EGR, you'll be able to pass the emissions sniffer test just fine.

[johnunit]

if you don't have a welder, you could probably use a pipe plug of a proper size and some exhaust sealant.

[1987cp]

if you don't have a welder, you could probably use a pipe plug of a proper size and some exhaust sealant.

:confused:

Thermactor hole thread is 5/8-11. And believe it or not, a bit of rubber hose works fine to cap off the air injection stub on the exhaust.

[86VickyLX]

Cap the air injection hose that goes to the head and run a high temp rubber hose down to the Mustang H emission pipe, if you choose to keep the smog pump.

[BerniniCaCO3]

Thanks!
I think I'll just remove smog: belt? $6. high temp hose? $50 + wait for online delivery.
I can get access to a mig welder, which seems the most reliable solution: nothing as impregnable as a steel bead there!

Anyway, went ahead and got the belt size you guys suggested, but I'll only find out thursday when I drop the engine in (ac still hanging on car) just how it fits

[86VickyLX]

50 bucks? Where are you shopping?

[1987cp]

Weld what? Where?

[91waggin]

Cut the air tubes coming out of the cats a few inches away from the cat with a hacksaw, use vice grips to pinch the open end you just cut shut, and you have a nice easy place to make a little weld to seal the exhaust leak coming out of the cats. If you cut it off flush, you have this big old hole in the catalytic converter that you have to plug with a big old ball of weld. If you pinch the pipe shut, all you have to do is make a bead of weld which is much easier and neater.
:hacksaw:

[86VickyLX]

Mustang pipe only has one open pipe.

[1987cp]

Stock Vic exhausts have two stubbies? I haven't seen a stock exhaust in six dozen years ....

[91waggin]

Mine had pipes going to both cats.

[sly]

had being the operative word? Smog pimp - fat hose - diverter valve (T shaped thing with small vacuum line on top) - out to cross over pipe and down to y-pipe (maybe one pipe to one cat then across to the other) for cats.

Though I have the 85 mustang diverter valve on mine that only goes to the crossover pipe behind the heads and filters out to the air downward instead of to the cats. I have a BFB (Big Friggin Bolt) in both injections pipes from the cats. amazingly enough, they don't leak up the threads of the bolts... yet. I should pinch them off and get someone to weld that... but meh. Works as is.

[1990LTD]

smog pimp ironically it's the perfect name for the panther chassis