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replacing engine: what else likes to rust & rot, while I've got it pulled?

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    #1

    replacing engine: what else likes to rust & rot, while I've got it pulled?

    Hi--

    Been starting lots of threads fretting over my engine rebuild.
    Will be ordering parts tomorrow, pretty much all engine related.

    On my short list, I do have a pipe related to the egr which rusted through, to replace (currently held with jb weld, hahaha), and the heater hoses, as the last remaining original coolant hoses and long due for dry rot and critical failure.
    Already did the starter motor and water pump.

    Considering adding a trans cooler.

    Oh, and the front seal on the torque converter leaks. Also a great time to do that too.
    Maybe I should just get a new car while I'm at it...

    Anyway. Wondering what else I've overlooked. Any item that's tricksty to get to, that'll be hella easier to replace while I've got the engine out, and isn't likely to last 30 years without issue?
    I don't want to do this engine swap, and 3 years from now have some $.50 plastic line hidden behind the engine rupture, and curse myself bitterly for not having done that today!

    ...for example, any "vacuum line kit" to buy and just do all the vacuum lines preemptively, or would I be wasting my money and best just to replace when and as they fail?

    Be generous with your list; I'm already spending hundreds on this project, another hundred more in preventative maintenance will not be a bad thing.


    thanks!
    -Bernard
    Tags: None
    #2
    torque box is probably rusty as shit
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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      #3
      frost plugs!!! front and rear of heads along with block... hell... i wonder if the racing gears would last longer than timing chain would?
      Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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        #4
        anything that looks like it could fail should be replaced....
        1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

        1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
        1994 MGM GS Montigua
        2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
        2002 Mustang GT Coupe

        Comment

          #5
          If you replace the pump seal, then do the tail seal as well. Will you be taking the transmission out with the engine?

          If so, turn it over and put a kit in the vb.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
            Hi--

            Been starting lots of threads fretting over my engine rebuild.
            Will be ordering parts tomorrow, pretty much all engine related.

            On my short list, I do have a pipe related to the egr which rusted through, to replace (currently held with jb weld, hahaha), and the heater hoses, as the last remaining
            I don't think that pipe you're talking about belongs to the EGR (you have a SEFI engine, right?). Does it run from the cats to the smog pump or from the heads to the smog pump? That would be the smog pump system.

            ON SEFI engines, the EGR is wholly internal to the intake.

            If you DON'T have to pass a visual inspection, remove the smog pump and put the shorter belt on (500k6 or 560k6, one of them is the regular belt for the alternator, etc, the other belt is for the shorter passenger belt). Then, remove the pipe from the back of the heads, cut the ends off, flip them over to cover the holes on the back of the heads. Remove all extraneous pipes. Then, cut the pipes off of the cats, pinch them shut and weld them shut (or JB) so they don't leak, and remove all other piping. Boom, no more smog crap.
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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              #7
              this is the pipe that's rusted: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2137wt_1002
              is that smog, and.. what is the smog pump/ what does it do anyway? Better fuel economy if removed?

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by BerniniCaCO3 View Post
                this is the pipe that's rusted: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2137wt_1002
                is that smog, and.. what is the smog pump/ what does it do anyway? Better fuel economy if removed?
                when your catalytic converters are cold air is pumped in from the smog pump to heat them more quickly. similar to a blast furnace.

                smog pumps are only for cold start emissions.
                1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

                1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
                1994 MGM GS Montigua
                2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
                2002 Mustang GT Coupe

                Comment

                  #9
                  don't they also blast air into the exhaust ports of the heads to sort of pre-burn stuff before it hits the cats?

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                    don't they also blast air into the exhaust ports of the heads to sort of pre-burn stuff before it hits the cats?
                    Flow restricting smog humps FTW!
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment

                      #11
                      stupid question related to that: can you remove the humps as far as restriction and still leave a reasonable hole if you wanted to still have the smog pump working? Or are you left with a gaping hole you need to fill in or something?

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment

                        #12
                        IDK, their kind of angled and junk. I wonder how'd they work if they still had air going through them after they were ground down.
                        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                        Comment

                          #13
                          it's amazing that pointing the flat side against the direction of flow ever seemed like a good idea.

                          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                            stupid question related to that: can you remove the humps as far as restriction and still leave a reasonable hole if you wanted to still have the smog pump working? Or are you left with a gaping hole you need to fill in or something?
                            Removing the bumps was an old trick from before the availability of aftermarket heads. It does make a difference, just smooth them out, but don't get crazy. Also gasket match the exhaust port, but leave the intake ports alone & you will feel the difference in the Butt Dyno and see it in your timeslips...



                            87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

                            91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              ass dyno FTW. though it may not be an 'accurate measurement tool' even though my ass is calibrated, just like my wrist. who needs torque wrenches??

                              grandpaslincoln!
                              1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

                              1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
                              1994 MGM GS Montigua
                              2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
                              2002 Mustang GT Coupe

                              Comment

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