need 5.0 carb help

[elthugus]

I have a 83 gm and i have put a 94 5.0 out of a mustang (i posted before it was a 93 but have since figured out it was a 94 or 95) i am converting to carb i have edelbrock 1406 with a performer intake and hei style dizzy and aod trans out of 88gm

1. The center port on the back of the carb is for brake booster right? the port on the carb is plugged right now

2. i should be using the drivers side vacuum port for the hei dizzy?

3. the front pvc port goes where? i have a port on oil fill neck and one on edelbrock airfilter housing but no pvc valve?

4. the power for the dizzy needs to be hooked up where?

5. and can i hook the electric choke up to the same spot ?(see 4)

6. on my 94 heads there were holes for some of the egr crap i took off i bought plugs to plug them but they dont fit what size plugs should i be using?

7. do i need the sensor on the drivers side rear most port

8. do i even need the cfi computer anymore i have setup a new fuel control system using a relay and oil pressure cutoff switch if i need the computer which wires i just left the power hooked up i would really like to just pull it out of the car

Thank you

[Mercracer]

5/8 nc blind hole thread inserts (Ford PN 351418-S) for the egr holes. You can not just use pipe plugs. You can not use the full EFI fuel pressure, you would need to use a regulator.

[elthugus]

forgot to let you guys know i have made a "pick up line" and a fuel pump on the frame rail it is about 8 psi then i have a regulator to supply about 4-5 psi

[gadget73]

1) usually

2) use whichever one doesn't have vacuum at idle. I forget which it is.

3) if there are no other large ports under the carb, usually it goes to a threaded port on the manifold somewhere.

4) key-on hot, though you'll need 2 wires for the Ford. The regular key-on power should be found in a connector somewhere near the cruise servo on the driver's fender. If you removed the EFI stuff completely, it ought to be the lone "extra" plug. If youj didn't completely remove the EFI harness, do that and you'll find it. You also need to tap into the I terminal on the starter relay so the ignition system has power while cranking.

5) yes

6) 5/8" bolt cut short, or use the old thermactor pipes. Cut the ends off the pipe, flip them over, and bolt them to the head to cover the holes.

7) what sensor?

8) no. Remove all of it including the wiring. It comes out in one big pile of wire mess.

[sly]

it's got a knock sensor?

[GoodSamaritan]

I have a 83 gm and i have put a 94 5.0 out of a mustang (i posted before it was a 93 but have since figured out it was a 94 or 95) i am converting to carb i have edelbrock 1406 with a performer intake and hei style dizzy and aod trans out of 88gm

Good choice of engine and carb. Thats the same carb (unless I happen to find a smoking deal on a 1405, which is the same thing minus the electric choke) I'm planning on using. It should run well when done. I've never messed with one of those distributors. (well not in a ford anyway) so I'd almost have to see it. The rest I should be able to help you out some.

1. The center port on the back of the carb is for brake booster right? the port on the carb is plugged right now

Usually the brake booster hooks up to the rear of the carb at the base, or the intake manifold will have a port nearby. (it will be about 5/16 or bigger) If you have both, just route it where it's most convenient.

2. i should be using the drivers side vacuum port for the hei dizzy?

The port for the vacum advance is on the side (drivers if I remember right) but it's usually halfway up or higher on the side. With the car running, it will have no vacum at idle, but will suck when you rev the engine a bit.

3. the front pvc port goes where? i have a port on oil fill neck and one on edelbrock airfilter housing but no pvc valve?

Pcv valve location depends on what sort of valve covers you are using. Are you running the stock ones or aftermarket? Either way, you can get the car running without one. But you'll need a vent.

4. the power for the dizzy needs to be hooked up where?

I'd almost have to see the distributor or the instructions.

5. and can i hook the electric choke up to the same spot ?(see 4)

The choke just needs to be hooked up to a source that gets 12v with the key on.
I think you'll find that the edelbrock carbs are very forgiving, I had a 1405 (manual choke) version on a truck a few years ago, and almost never remembered to pull the choke on it. It'd fire right up after sitting for two or three weeks with several inches of snow on top of it.


On a side note, don't mess around with the idle mixture screws on the bottom of the carb, unless you are using a vacum gauge and know what you are doing. So many old timers will tell you to turn the screw in then back it out so many turns... DON'T DO IT! These carbs run well right out of the box, and I've seen several messed up like that. If you don't know how to peak one up with a vac gauge, ask and I'll walk you through it.

6. on my 94 heads there were holes for some of the egr crap i took off i bought plugs to plug them but they dont fit what size plugs should i be using?

Not sure as I've yet to mess with those heads, but you do want to block the thermactor ports.
As someone already mentioned, you can cut the ends of the thermactor tube (the one that went to both heads, then down to the exhaust/smog pump plumbing) flip them and bolt them back on.
If you Don't have that, you can get a couple of spark plugs, and thread them into the holes. Then break the ceramic part off. Be careful any ceramic left sticking out will be insanely sharp after you break them off.

7. do i need the sensor on the drivers side rear most port

Not sure what you are talking about, but it won't hurt/cost/eat anything to leave it there until you've figured things out a bit more.

8. do i even need the cfi computer anymore i have setup a new fuel control system using a relay and oil pressure cutoff switch if i need the computer which wires i just left the power hooked up i would really like to just pull it out of the car

I don't know of anything on an 83, that requires the computer (cfi?) other than the actual engine.
I'd leave it until you get the car going, then start unplugging things one at a time. That way, you won't hack up the wiring harness only to find out that something important was run through the same harness as the now defunct computer.

Thank you

You are welcome, and I hope that helps.
PM me if you need a quicker response.

[Mercracer]

If you Don't have that, you can get a couple of spark plugs, and thread them into the holes. Then break the ceramic part off. Be careful any ceramic left sticking out will be insanely sharp after you break them off. .

Spark plugs are metric thread. Those holes are 5/8 NC thread. Any decent industrial supply store will stock the inserts if you need them. Your dealer may stock them or can get them in a couple of days.
Use a thread chaser before screwing anything in the holes as carbon clogs the threads. There is really no excuse for bubba'ing the holes when the inserts are readily available and cheap.

[86VickyLX]

CFI cars have knock sensors. As do cars with the VV carb iirc.

[elthugus]

thanks for the info guys looks like i will leave what wring i have left and when the thing runs i will start cutting whats left the ford parts numbers are helpful(thank you Mercracer ) no bs answer and I now know what i need ... on a side note I am using stock 94 valve covers but i think are the same for older gm 86+ one more question i have a aod trans and i was told to buy a lokar tv cable kit which i did it seems to me the stock 83 gm linkage will work it is not a cable but looks like a kickdown arm

[zoomie]

why carb EFI much more fun .....

[elthugus]

yeah i wish i would have switched to efi but its to late now carb was supposed to be easier........

[91waggin]

yeah i wish i would have switched to efi but its to late now carb was supposed to be easier........

yeah, but with much much less awesome per gallon.

[ford man]

Hey there- PCV is the big 3/8 nipple in the front of the carb. Crankcase vent to air cleaner or atmosphere. For the distributor- port vacuum is the higher of the two ports on the front of the carb. Port vacuum is above the throttle plate and manifold vacuum is below. Port vacuum has no vacuum at idle. I would go with port vacuum. Happy tuning!

[GoodSamaritan]

yeah, but with much much less awesome per gallon.

If one is set up well, it's really not that much different. I dare say a well set up carb is more efficient than a neglected efi.

[Smokestacklightnin]

I didnt use the carb port (1405) at the rear for the brake booster. I reused the vacuum port from the old cfi intake in the performer intake same for the heater hose connection on the intake. It fits no problem. Use the drivers side port on the carb for the distributor. I left the PCV port plugged on the carb, and dont use pcv just goes to atmosphere. On an older car I prefer the carb. Lot easier to tune and troubleshoot.