Changing the Oil Pan Gasket

[Ringting]

Hello,
I am changing the oil pan gasket on a 1989 MGM. The reason is leakage. Yes it is a very wonderful and fun job. No I did not remove engine, way over my head.

On this project I am asking for knowledge and tips on how to do the best job possible. I typically take pictures, clean as many places as can be reached, and consider doing extra. So I would appreciate any ideas on areas to inspect while under the car.

Pictures will come tomorrow.

Details
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis
Mileage: 52,000 (7,000 in last 16 months)

Maintenance History
Work orders show it was care for relatively well. Driven in southern California. Engine was serviced in January, THANKS to all who helped. Replaced: vacuum hoses, valve cover gaskets, major tune up, lots of cleaning.

Issues
A) Oil is leaking from passenger side of oil pan and along the rear. Oil has covered the surfaces behind the pan and left marks on asphalt. Gasket was not seated properly; over tightening of bolts may have been the cause.

B) There are oil stains above the pan between the oil pump and cylinder 1.

Found So Far
1) The gasket just removed is rubber, cracks 1/3-1/2 of the way around steel inlays, cracks are towards the outside edge
2) The gasket has two non-smooth, bumpy areas. They are at one end of the gasket, on one face, mirror images, just before the corners. The marks run from one edge to the other. I want to say it looks like a seam but that would make no sense.

Resources
I have both the Shop and Electrical-Vacuum manuals

What I Am Thinking
1) Saturday I will clean everywhere covered in oil and other areas I can reach. Look for signs of potential problems. Sunday I will reassemble everything.
2) The water pump and timing chain will be inspected. There have been times where the engine ran hot. My heater electrical/vacuum switch is not functioning, AC just went.
3) With so little space between pan and block I plan to use brake cleaner and rags. The new gasket is FEL-PRO, OS 34508 R.
4) Would like to check suspension, not sure how.

If there are specific pictures needed let me know.

Thank you,
Ringting

[87gtVIC]

How did you remove the pan without removing, or at least lifting, the engine?

[Ringting]

Brute force and ignorance on this one. Vehicle is on stands and I am small & agile. I removed the bolts and dropped it about 1". Just now I finished wiping the area down.

During cleaning I discovered the front cap does not fit smoothly and there is a tan colored stain on the block where the cover meets the block.

[89crownlx]

pictures of said area will help with diagnosis.

[gadget73]

Is the new gasket a one piece or the 4 piece gasket? If its not one piece, you'd do yourself a huge favor to get one. SOme of them also come with these nifty plastic guide things that will hold the gasket in place while you put the pan on, then unscrew once the pan has a few bolts in it to hold it. Also, you can gain a few inches of clearance by unbolting the motor mount brackets from the engine (2 bolts per) and jacking the motor up. If you have something overhead to hang it from, thats even better, though you want to be sure its very secure and not going to drop the motor on your hands.

[1990LTD]

I have absolutely no idea how it's possible to take the pan off with the motor still in the car. I applaud you. It makes sense if you just changed the gasket and used the 4 piecer.

[Ringting]

Good Day,
Yes gasket is one piece. It has the plastic plug/guides.

Last night the bulk of the oil residue was removed. I am about to start wiping down with a solvent now.

Here is the best shot to show unevenness and stain.

[HATNINJA]

the unevenness is just the timing cover mounting to the block seam dont worry bout it just make sure that you put sealant across it. the stain is just some leftover dinosaur shit from the prorolific era.

[HATNINJA]

if you were gonna do timing chain and w/pump noew would be a good time before you put the pan back on.

[Ringting]

HATNINJA,
Thanks for this advice. This is the type of stuff I was hoping for. Water pump is a likely, Timing Chain propably not due to low mileage.

Gadget,
Not going to do all that. By the time I figure all of that out and do it, my skinny fingers, rags, and tooth brushes, will have the surfaces cleaned and job done. I have a plan for sliding new gasket into place. Slow and easy makes the day on a job like this.

BFI will rule on this job.

See there is lot of room.


Back to a warm cement floor. I sure don't miss doing this type of job on a dirt floor in the middle of winter.

[HATNINJA]

WOW!!!! did anyone notice how clean and rust free those trans lines are!? man from what i see you have a really clean car! i thought mine was clean.

the only reason i suggested the chain is there is some pretty tricky crap u gotta do when the pan is connected.

[1980c10]

I have never seen rusty tranny lines. Maybe I dont pay attention though lol. I do know next time I see my car I am going to look haha.

[HATNINJA]

dammit now you got me thinking im gonna look in a min. i just thought every looked pretty clean there.

[grandpaslincoln]

Mine are protected with an nice layer of oil and grease.

[Ringting]

Used solvent to clean metal surfaces that gasket comes in contact with and now letting area air out. My question before I start to reassemble I ask if I should reach in and wipe down parts seen below. Timing chain has 1/16 - 3/32 play so I plan to leave it alone. Water pump shows signs of a few leaks. The plan is to wait for a few months and work on the entire cooling system.