For the O2 sensor: Why not go to AutoZone and rent an O2-sensor socket?
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types of wrenches for tough bolts?
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use a 7/8" wrench
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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One of the bolts on my plenum cover is so rounded, it looks like a rivet. Should I be fine cutting it enough so the head of the bolt snaps off? Looking at my spare intake, I don't really think there's any danger of me cutting anything vital
What say you guys? Dremel?sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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it's a t20 torx.......beat a t25 into the screw and back it out
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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T20 sounds right. usually you want to stick the socket in there and give it a whack to seat it and break the corrosion loose. They come right off then.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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alright, got it off! Had a bit of help from a friend too.
I'd badly stripped it, so what it came down to, was hitting with a stone chisel and 3lb hammer to try to shock it loose, then experimenting with mushrooming the bolt and inserting an aluminum spacer into a 13mm socket (it's a 1/2" bolt) to get a tight press fit, and finally, using the chisel to pry up the old starter motor until the top bolt came free.
Rather extreme measures, but that darned bolt was so very far gone...
I'm replacing the bolt with a nice grade 8 that shouldn't round off like that ever again!
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grade 8 ftw.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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no, antiseize ftw.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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well, if only ford had thought to use antiseize on the original part!!
Oh, QUESTION: yesterday I just broke another bolt in the engine housing, while doing the valve cover gaskets. I can't be thankful enough: a lefthand drill bit pulled it out in tact (not reusable-- but tapped threads remained a-OK).
Now I replaced that bolt with a 1/4-20, 3/4" long grade 8 bolt from home depot.
The valve cover screws ARE 1/4-20, right?
Anyway, the idea is that the new screw should never break off again.
However, grade 8 bolts are a reasonable alloy that's been hardened and tempered.
Therefore, a drill bit of a reasonable alloy that's been hardened and tempered, won't necessarily be able, any longer, to remove a broken grade 8 bolt!
High strength is lovely, but can it stab you in the back, because when a grade 8 bolt breaks, you'll need cobalt, tungsten carbide, or abrasive/diamond tooling to drill and tap it out again??
OR, a high-strength bolt can possibly strip the threads in a softer housing?
That is to say, was ford just cutting costs, and if one had the money, there'd be no reason not to use grade 8 bolts for every single bolt in your car: or are there very real engineering reasons to go with a softer bolt?
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There may be other reasons, but for the most part, using grade 8 on a lot of shit is just throwing money away because it's overkill.Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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1/4-20 = correct. Except for one hole I came across that'd gotten buggered and someone retapped it for 5/16-18.
Also agree mostly on the Grade 8 thing. Lots of factory engine fasteners were Grade 5, like intake and front cover bolts, and on a low-stress fastener like a valvecover bolt (I usually grab not more than 3" or so out on a 1/4" ratchet for that task, unless I really feel like dragging out a torque wrench for a noncritical fastener), you can normally get away with a Grade 2 or even the cruddy hardware-store stainless bolts that have very little tensile strength.
Come to think of it, even some suspension stuff is supplied with Grade 5 fasteners or metric 9.8. I know the toplock nuts I used on my front upper control arm shafts were approximately Grade 5 equivalent ("Class C" IIRC).
My personal favorite valvecover bolts I've seen were ARPs of some description that had nifty little 3/8" heads with integral collars.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by gadget73For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.
2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.
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