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    Frequent Stalling/Problems Starting

    The starting issue started sometime last month. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank but not fire over. It takes a good couple tries before she wants to fire up. Scott suggested the TFI module was going bad. How do I remove such and find a part number so I can grab a replacement? Asking the guy at AutoZone, he kinda gave me a look when I asked for a TFI module, and said I meant an Ignition Control Module. Are these the same thing?

    Secondly, she's stalling quite frequently. Between shifting gears, or just when coming to a start. She stalled on me once in stop-and-go traffic, then backing into a space at the bank, and finally at a red light down the street from home. Not having fun unless I get a fairly straight shot to work...idle is kinda low at times, especially when using the A/C, but the IAC is good. Should I be searching for vacuum leaks?
    Last edited by MrMarquis; 06-29-2010, 04:43 PM.


    sigpic
    - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

    #2
    You're sure the IAC is good? Low idle and lots of stalling, along with hard starting are signs of an IAC thats not working properly.

    TFI in generic terms is an ignition module. TFI is just Ford's official name for it.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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      #3
      I just got a brand new moroso coil for $50..... granted it is performance, the guy at the parts store will know when you give him the engine. I'm not saying this is the problem, but motorcraft TFI's should be pretty cheap.
      "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
      1985 GMC 1500

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        #4
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        You're sure the IAC is good? Low idle and lots of stalling, along with hard starting are signs of an IAC thats not working properly.

        TFI in generic terms is an ignition module. TFI is just Ford's official name for it.
        Did a little more research and actually found the meaning for TFI, "Thick Film Ignition" module. Makes sense to me now.

        The IAC kills the engine when unplugged and does so fairly quickly. May just need to take it off and clean it up some. But I'll probably replace it anyway.


        sigpic
        - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

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          #5
          Update...

          I noticed that when I turn the key on, the fuel pump buzzes and cuts off, and the car starts when I try.

          When the car has trouble starting, the fuel pump constantly buzzes and never shuts off...

          Fuel pump is new as of last year...


          sigpic
          - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

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            #6
            Mr. Marquis,
            I have a 4 page PDF file called "Tech Tips, Service Tips for the Automotive Technicians", 3rd Quarter 2000. On page 3 there is an article titled "Ford Vehicles - Idle Problems". Hope it helps you.
            Thank you,
            ringting

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              #7
              Two Other TFI Items (focus is Lincoln Mark VII):

              Service Bulletin Number: 89-25-10
              Bulletin Sequence Number: 061
              Date of Bulletin: 8912
              NHTSA Item Number: SB010325
              Make: LINCOLN
              Model: MARK VII
              Year: 1990
              Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION
              Summary: "PINPOINT TEST" FLOW CHART ON PAGE 8 IN INSTRUCTION BOOK IS INCORRECT-INSTRUCTIO N
              BOOK(ROTUNDA #2490-786) COMES WITH "TFI/EEC-IV INTERMITTENT IGNITION ANALYZER" MODEL HK453-USE
              REVISED STEPS, THIS INFORMATION SHOULD BE INSERTED IN INSTRUCTIO N BOOK PAGE 8 FOR FUTURE USE-ALL
              1987-90 LINCOLN/MARK VII/TOWN CAR/AND CONTINENT ALS GM


              Service Bulletin Number: BC6577900329
              Bulletin Sequence Number: 049
              Date of Bulletin: 9003
              NHTSA Item Number: SB020638
              Make: LINCOLN
              Model: MARK VII
              Year: 1990
              Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING
              Summary: INTERMITTENT HIGH IDLE-RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE TO TFI WIRES-ALL FORD RC

              Comment


                #8
                that just sounds like the pump is trying to keep pressure in the lines but at the same time if its taking a few cranks to get it to start the injectors are gonna squirt fuel into the cylinders and the pump is gonna keep the pressure steady. all that means is that youre not getting enough air to get the car to start.

                this may sound stupid but you can do like a quarter turn on the throttle screw and see if it gets easier to start. if it does then id say your IAC is bad and/or you need to clean out your throttle body. if you replace the IAC then turn the screw back the quarter turn

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                  #9
                  Okay, little update.

                  I replaced the IAC, the idle seems better; but the A/C stills drops the idle lower. No stalling while running on the highway or redlights though.

                  I guess I need to turn my attention to the TFI and vacuum hoses now? How do I remove the TFI?


                  sigpic
                  - 2004 Ford Thunderbird - 2006 Ford F150 XLT - 2018 Ford Explorer Limited - 1958 Mercury Medalist

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                    #10
                    very carefully

                    should be the two screws that hold it on the distributor and maybe have to lift the distributor up some to get the prongs to let go from the module. do mark positions and all on the distributor before lifting it out just in case so you can line it back up afterwards.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                      #11
                      I think you will have to remove the distributor to replace it.
                      89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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                        #12
                        oh yeah... don't forget the thermal grease - like for computer processors (not dielectric grease) between the module and the dist.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Removing the TFI usually requires a special tool that has a special narrow-wall socket in the neighborhood of 7.5mm. They have them at most auto parts stores known as an "ignition module removal tool."
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
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