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EGR Vent Solenoid Changed now AC not working

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    #1

    EGR Vent Solenoid Changed now AC not working

    Problem: ATC no longer providing cooled air to cabin.

    Questions:
    Did I install the wrong part?
    Have I caused a new problem based on changing EGR Vent Solenoid?
    Is there a way to test the original part to determine condition?

    Details
    1989 MGM with 51,400 original miles
    Code 34 researched and decision was to change out the EGR Vent Solenoid. Have Car Shop Manual 1989 and 1989 Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual.
    Temperature setting had not been changed (set at roughly 72).
    Has been 36 hours, 35 miles since change made
    Codes have not been cleared.

    Prior to switching EGR Vent Solenoid: ATC provide lots of cooled air, Engine idled a bit high (measured by ear), some rough spots when idling, EGR Value cleaned throughly at 46,400

    After switching EGR Vent Solenoid: immediate drop in idle speed (measured by ear), vehicle seems to be running better (perception based)

    FORD Part Removed
    Lectron
    Roch. Hills, MI
    E53E-9J459
    A2A
    1389G (marked by electrical connection)
    All Black

    Ford Part Installed [from wrechers]
    E75E-9J459-A1A
    7M17A (marked by electrical connection)
    Black body, Grey Cap

    Vacuum Lines
    Top: M-3-10 (Green)
    Bottom: M-1-15 (Red, splits just after elbow)

    Green Connects to EGR Valve
    Red Connects to backside of Upper Intake Manifold





    Last edited by Ringting; 06-23-2010, 08:35 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I also have code 34 with an occasional sputter from stop lights. I believe its the egr valve not seating properly and slightly sticking open. I tested this with my mouth from the seat side of the valve.

    you could always switch the solenoid out again since they dont take long to replace.
    Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

    Comment

      #3
      Is the AC compressor running or no? If its running and you're not getting cold air, then there is a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly a line disturbed. If the compressor is not running, then its something else. I'd be looking at the plugs on the compressor and low pressure switch (on the black or silver can, passenger side rear corner of the engine bay) and checking the connections on the relays on the driver's side near the washer bottle. The EGR regulator has exactly zero to do with the AC system, other than some of the wires and hoses run near each other.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

      Comment

        #4
        Your last sentence is what I thought.

        I was thinking of checking connections and tracing the lines.

        This just came up and I just headed out to checked the compressor.


        Anyone know the meter readings I should look for on the solenoid? Reinstalling the original one will be done during the trouble shooting.

        I like that mouth test, quick and easy.


        Thanks for comments.

        Comment

          #5
          Whether the A/C compressor is running is definitely the first question. That way you know if the problems between the vent solenoid and the A/C are related or just funky coincidence.

          BTW, Ringting, I love your posts. They are articulate, concise, and never leave doubt as to what you mean. I wish more posters were like you.
          Originally posted by gadget73
          There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
          91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
          93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
          Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
          Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
          95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

          Comment

            #6
            another thing to check is the the egr position sensor voltage.. it has to be below 0.67 volts or it will throw a code. sometimes there is enough carbon left in the valve that it pushes on the rod just enough to be above that threshold.

            so even though your valve opens and closes properly, there is enough carbon in it to make the sensor think that it's open.

            http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35
            Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.

            Comment

              #7
              Morning/Afternoon/Evening,
              The support, technical details, and compliments are appreciated. Typically I shy away from on-line stuff, since everything on the internet is true, however this community has shown me that mindset should be adjusted.

              I have been busy reading the manuals and learning how to use that knowledge. The missing piece has been numbers to look for, like the 0.67 volts. My goal is to send out a note with visuals/details on where things are tonight.

              Quick update is: measured volts/ohms, test light technique used on Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch, A/C WOT Relay, and A/C Clutch Field Coil. NOTE: can not find A/C Clutch Diode.

              Before going to bed I discovered some steps were done wrong so this afternoon things will be improved. Then the note issued.

              Currently I am wondering is all the geasy oily dirt removed from hoses in January was the visual indicator of leakage. Next idea is Pressure Switch not signalling Clutch to engage. Last idea is clutch needing rebuilding.

              If system needs recharging then I will take everything apart and clean, rebuild, service, replace, etc.

              Take care,
              Ringting

              Comment

                #8
                The clutch diode is taped to the wiring harness feeding the compressor. If you follow it back to roughly the rear corner of the intake, you'll find a plastic blobby thing taped to the outside of the split loom tubing. Thats the diode.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                Comment

                  #9
                  Condition: No cooling
                  Possible Cause: Inoperative A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch
                  Action: Remove the connector from the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch and check for continuity through the Switch.
                  Outcome: A/C Clutch Field Coil engages

                  Closed above 45 PSIG increasing
                  Open below 24 PSIG decreasing

                  Engine is run with switch jumper in place making clutch engage. Temperature set at 65, Panel position, and Auto fan speed brings some cooled air after 2-3 minutes. Metal piping cool to touch except for just after canister with white label, 2162-244-001, COCLISA, Z4DS9 on battery side of compressor. ASP E6VE-AA 31 LB/HR


                  Please comment on what to do now.



                  A/C WOT Relay, Gray, 9ECX,
                  Page 38 Component Location Views Figure 2 – LH Fender Apron (5.0 L Engine)
                  Wires: 73 O/LB, 361 R, 883 PK/LB, 347 BK/Y
                  Test for low resistance [Close to zero = closed, infinity = open]


                  A/C Clutch Field Coil
                  Page 50 Component Location Views Figure 2 – RH Side of Engine
                  Wires: 347 BK/Y, 57 BK
                  Connector: E70B-14603-6, QSR 505, plugs into top of Compressor
                  Resistance Test


                  A/C Clutch Diode
                  Page 50 Component Location Views Figure 2 – RH Side of Engine
                  Wires: 347 BK/Y, 57 BK

                  Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch
                  Page 82 Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) (Electrical)
                  Wires: 348 LG/P, 883 PK/LB, C461
                  Test with jumper light


                  Shorting Switch??


                  Condenser Piping

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Conclusion: R12 has escaped. (ran compressor for a few minutes during mid-day sun)

                    This thread is in the wrong spot so it is done.

                    I will be reading stuff like 1987cp's "Yet another air conditioning thread" and possibly posting in the correct area.

                    Thank you.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Ah, an R12 system. Yeah by now most of those have leaked out. Shame because R12 as a refrigerant just kicks ass.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Quite true. The car was like a meat locker sometimes. Having that capability will be missed.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          My 93 vic is still holding it's original R-12. Cools very nicely. If I ever have to replace the R-12 I'll probably order some freeze-12.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            my townie and mk7 cool well with r134a

                            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Freeze 12 is R134 with butane in it. Nothing special about it.

                              I hear good things about R406a and I'm tempted to give it a shot in the Mark VII.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                              Comment

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