the drain is probably clogged........pull the lower radiator hose instead
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1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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you may be able to unthread that plastic drain valve completely and poke something in there to clear it out. Probably packed with sludge. Usually not a promising sign for whatever thats worth.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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I can pull the lower hose, yeah. I'm starting to think $60 at my local (trusted) shop for a full professional flush & fill ain't a bad deal...1990 LTD Crown Victoria LX. As stock as the day it was born.
16" HPPs sitting in the garage. That's it for now...kids gotta eat.
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how do the radiator fins on the inside around the cap look?
if they are crusty, just buy a new radiator and hoses, if it's the original radiator, it's prob gonna start leaking after a flush
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by erocksteady View Post
No that's not terrible at all. The coolant itself is the expensive part because you've gotta buy so damn much of it. 60 for the green stuff and for someone to flush it for you is good.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
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This is damn near guaranteed to fuck your radiator, if it's got that much sludge and shit in it. A new radiator is 81 dollars from rock auto. Use the discount code in the site news section for 5% off.Originally posted by erocksteady View Post91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.Originally posted by gadget73
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13Comment
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Not bad actually, just did an initial drain tonight. There's definitely some rusty sludge, but not that much actually. Fins look okay. Shiny metal for the most part. The coolant itself is nasty. Looks like coffee. I'll do this for a few nights and see where I'm at. Some parts may be in order...Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post1990 LTD Crown Victoria LX. As stock as the day it was born.
16" HPPs sitting in the garage. That's it for now...kids gotta eat.
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Alright, here's the deal. I've been draining and refilling the radiator for about a week now, for a total of 6 times. Water's coming out pretty darn clean after 40 miles with periods of the heat blowing full blast. Not crystal clear, but tolerable. I know at this point buying a new rad and hoses would be great, and although $80 for one is extremely reasonable, I really can't foot it at the moment. Inside the rad looks okay. Not great, but not nasty. There's just a bit of real pitting and corrosion, but mostly, the fins look like someone took a dump in it--just that same old thin layer of crap that feels/looks like clay. Running the hose in it makes it look fine again until the next drain.
I read so many conflicting things about cleaners/flushers. Are any of them worth using? Prestone flush? What about weird "home remedies" like vinegar, baking soda, laundry detergent, or CLR? Common sense tells me to stay away from that junk...but, what's the consensus? I obviously want to strike a balance between something that's effective but won't harm my gaskets. If it's a good idea to stay away from any additive, I'll just run with semi-dirty coolant until I can afford a new rad. But then, at that point, wouldn't I want some kind of flush anyway, so my new rad doesn't fill with shit?
Sorry for the novel...1990 LTD Crown Victoria LX. As stock as the day it was born.
16" HPPs sitting in the garage. That's it for now...kids gotta eat.
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If you call this a novel, then the really long story thread must be an encyclopedia.
Personally I have no problem using the Prestone flush (that's what I used the last couple of times I flushed cars). Just be aware that using a flush may open leaks that are clogged with crap. It's a small chance, but it may happen. Other then that, I'd say flush it.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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Flush it with the Prestone stuff, then put coolant in. You won't have done it any harm by flushing out the rusty crap. The cooling system may not be completely pristine, but hey anything is better than nothing.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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Thanks for the tips everyone.1990 LTD Crown Victoria LX. As stock as the day it was born.
16" HPPs sitting in the garage. That's it for now...kids gotta eat.
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