My car (and any I've driven, really) rev much higher than normal idle on a cold start. The colder the start, the longer it will rev before it comes down to a normal cold idle - I've been told it's completely normal, I'm just wondering why the hell they do that? Gotta build up oil pressure or something? Gets the oil circulating? I have no idea, I'm just curious
 |
-
sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock -
fuel doesn't vaporize well in the cold, so the engine is run at a higher speed to warm it up quicker so the engine will idle properly. There needs to be some heat in the cylinder for efficient combustion.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers -
Very cool. Thank you.
When you shut your car off, does all of the oil drip down into the pan? Running off of the lifters and pushrods and all of the fun stuff? Does this leave them dry if you've left the car sitting a while?
Sorry for the goofy questions but as you can likely tell by the thread I know not of these things.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
-
most of the oil drips back down, but a film will lay on stuff. If you leave it sit for months and years at a time, eventually the film runs off and everything is left dry. Thats when things start to rust internally.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
30seconds is the typical high(er) idle time. Incidently, the owners manual recommends running for at least 1 minute before driving after a cold start (winter time type cold that is).
Alex.Comment
-
Only letting it idle for a minute seems wrong
sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
-
I don't have a minute to let it idle.Originally posted by 1990LTD View PostOnly letting it idle for a minute seems wrong2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
-
Give a man a fish and he will be fed for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will promptly forget that he once did not know, and proceed to call anyone who asks, a n00b and flame them on the boards for being stupid.Comment
-
there might be something wrong with mine, mine does it regardless of heat lol
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
1965 Cadillac Hearse by M+M "Edgar"
1964 Mercury Comet CalienteComment
-
You don't need to idle it for a minute. The computer is programmed to allow a cold drive away condition. It says it right in the link that cld783 posted.Comment
-
You don't need to, thats the beuty of fool injection. BUT, its a bit nicer to your engine if the oil start flowing before putting a load on it. (and since its lost on some of ya, winter, sub zero starts)
Alex.Comment
-
yes, allowing some time to get the oil warmed up and circulating is a good thing for durability. The colder it is outside, the more important this becomes. Using thinner oils in the winter in cold climates helps with that. 20w50 doesn't pump very well when its well below freezing.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
My car just seems to like it better when I let it idle for 2 minutes or so on a normal day, longer in winter - I wait til the temp gauge starts climbing.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockComment
-
You won't hurt anything by doing that, but you might waste a bit of fuel. I just start it, wait 15-20 secs (long enough to tune the stereo), and then drive away normally. I don't get on it until the engine's up to operating temp, but you won't hurt anything by driving normally.
The real way to make sure that you're getting oil circulating before you drive away is to make sure you're running the appropriate oil for your outside temps. Ford says that if the temp's going to go below -18C, but won't be above 38C, you should be running 5W-30. If the temp's going to be above -18C, and above 38C, then you should run 10W-30.Last edited by 91waggin; 05-30-2010, 08:59 PM.91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.Originally posted by gadget73
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13Comment
Comment