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best way to change a belt?

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    best way to change a belt?

    I am curious about replacing my alternator belt..don't need an accessory one, just the alternator.

    It seems to me (the uneducated) that you need only remove something that is spinning on the belt (alternator being the only one I have done myself) and just pop it on there. Is that the case?


    If this is completely erroneous, what does a fella need to know before starting the job?
    Last edited by 1990LTD; 04-18-2010, 10:18 AM.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    there is no best way to change an alt belt, only one way lol. just loosen the top and bottom bolt on the alt and the belt comes loose. only thing left to do is snake it around the fan

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

    Comment


      #3
      Loosen both bolts holding the alternator in place.
      The upper bolt is it a slide (curved slot) instead of a hole.
      Pivot the alternator (down) using the slide to allow slack in the belt.
      Remove old belt.....install new belt.
      Pivot alternator back up and lightly snug the bolts.
      Get a bar (I use that claw of a hammer) to put tension on the belt.
      Tighten the alternator bolts.
      Check tension/belt flex (should be about 1/2 inch).
      Former panther owner
      1981 CV 351 4bbl
      1991 CV 302 EFI

      Comment


        #4
        So the way I did it is actually the way you're supposed to do it? Jamming a hockey stick down into an engine compartment looks funny
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

        Comment


          #5
          Jamming a hockey stick down into an engine compartment looks funny
          We must have pics!
          Last edited by andymac0035; 04-18-2010, 10:43 AM.
          Former panther owner
          1981 CV 351 4bbl
          1991 CV 302 EFI

          Comment


            #6
            its the only way. the alt is the tentioner per say

            1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
            1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
            1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
            2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
            2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by andymac0035 View Post
              We must have pics!
              "The method of changing alternator belts on the Canadian models..."clean


              Nobody is taking any pictures of my engine bay until it's been good and
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                to tighten it back, I grab the ear of the alternator and the end of the alt bracket with some big channel lock pliers and squeeze.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #9
                  thanks cats.


                  Is there a particular brand that are known for making belts that last longer, or is there a certain material that is preferable, or is a goodyear belt the same as a motorcraft is the same as a dorman...? In other words, are they all created equally? Would appreciate being pointed in the direction of a high quality replacement.
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I like "gate's" belts.
                    Former panther owner
                    1981 CV 351 4bbl
                    1991 CV 302 EFI

                    Comment


                      #11
                      1) Remove old belt
                      2) Install new belt


                      Last belt I bought was a Duralast from Autozone, so that might not help you unless you drive to Detroit to change your belt.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Same ^ I use duralast brand. I don't think there is that much of a difference in belts, most wear is caused by pulleys that are worn/bent or loose conditions, not the belt itself. You should check every once and a while (I do it on oil changes) to make sure the belts are all nice and tight, because they do stretch.
                        "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                        1985 GMC 1500

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I used the tire iron/lug-wrench/crowbar to tension my belt. haven't needed to replace it, but I did need to replace the water pump... that was a pain in the ass.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Upon examining the tread pattern and thickness and durability of belts, I wouldn't buy anything other than a goodyear gatorback or a gates. This is an item I don't want to worry about as a failure point, so I use those two. They seem to be made of a higher quality rubber, and the gatorback look like they'd resist throwing because of special cross-grooves cut in them.
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                            Comment


                              #15
                              If you've got money, goodyear gatorback. They're good enough that the belt-chirp into second some modded whale panthers experience is almost universally fixed just by going to gatorback belts, even if the car already had newish motorcraft belts.

                              It's all relatively good though as long as you've heard of the brand. Gates, Motorcraft, Goodyear, whatever. I think that the good rule of thumb for these cars is that if there's 2 quality levels at a given store, buy the top quality, and you'll be ok.


                              Also, don't use a composite stick to pry

                              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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