Thinking when i get my heads I want to do it just wondering how much it should cost by a shop I heard you can screw the heads up if you do them wrong...
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How much to port and polish gt40 heads??
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http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/e7.html There's a sizable difference between E7 and GT40 heads, but skim this and see if you think it's do-able. The difficulty level and general techniques should be similar for GT40 heads.
After reading this and a few other writeups, I've been more or less convinced that porting my stock E6 heads (supposedly almost as good as e7's?) is within my ability.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
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I was wondering this as well, if it was worth it to machine the gt40s I have and have them ported or just sell them and spend a bit more on aluminum heads (probably a lot a bit but whatever)."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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by the time you buy used gt40's and have the valve job done, then have them ported and polished and surfaced, and valve springs (if explorer gt40's) it's not worth it unless you got a buddy or an inexpensive machine shop (mine closed up, he was half of what the other guys wanted......he replaced a couple guides, did a valve job, surfaced, ported the bowls and assembled the gt40p heads on toms vic for 250)......paid 300 to have a few guides, valve job and surfacing on a set of gt40 heads recently at another local shop.........save your money or run stock heads.......i like my thumper e7's and think they were well worth the money, but i'm sure i'll get flamed for reccomending them lol
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by The Auntie Christ View PostBuy a better set of heads. So far as recommendations go....I'd leave the GT40's alone and use them for now.
That said, a set of OK stock heads for near free with a mill and valvejob for $200, going on an engine that will never see modifications beyond the level of an Exploder intake and shorty headers, is probably an OK deal as long as you don't actually expect much from them. (This is where I got in trouble with my GT40-headed engine; I want actual power, and now find I have some actual money tied up in junk that doesn't really do much!) The more I read about how easy it is to make airflow worse instead of better, combined with ways in which experienced professionals can manage to misinterpret or misrepresent flowbench data, the less interested I am in spending a lot of my limited wrenching time trying to wring 10 more horsepower out of my stock garbage and then spending even more money cobbling together a home flowbench which probably won't give me anything in the way of useful data anyway.Last edited by 1987cp; 04-13-2010, 08:28 AM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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or a set of iron rhs bare heads with large valves for 330 a head if you really want to be cheap.
i think if you want to do it as an expirience and see how it works out then go for the porting but yea you can do more harm then good if youre not carefull. its not really a stupid thing to do (IMO) but yea youll never get the gains youd get out of an after market set of heads. i guess porting is only worth it if you have some sort of common sense and will do it yourself.
and yea i know some people will say im worng too but its all good
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