Originally posted by famcrown
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Sorry for keep asking same questions.
I rechecked car and found that the bolts or that hold down the valve covers were extremely loose. I tightened all the bolts on the outsides. (I guess I would call it the lower part of cover -as its on an angle).. are there more bolts on the inner part (-Higher part of the cover--)
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Yeah but the passenger side will have to have the upper intake removed to access the "inner ones" I believe."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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Basically, all electrical connections should be unplugged from the upper intake. EGR, TPS, IAC. Remove all vacuum lines from the intake, that is if you can see them. Take caution because some of the lines are plastic and are very brittle due to old age. There are two coolant hoses on the back of the EGR spacer near the throttle body, which reminds me the throttle linkage must be disconnected from the throttle body. After that's all done. There's a torx or allen key needed to remove the name plate. When that's done, there's 6 bolts to undo for the upper plenum. size 13mm. 2 on each end, and 2 in the middle.
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if you tightened the valve cover gasket bolts, I'm gonna bet it will leak even worse. When they become loose, its because the gasket underneath has shrunk up, and usually is hard as a rock. When you crank the bolts down, it cracks that hard as rock gasket and the oil just pours out. The only real solution for it is to replace the valve cover gaskets. I want to say there are 6 bolts, 3 on each edge of the valve cover, but my memory could be lying to me and there are actually 8. I just don't remember right now. Either way, if you're removing the upper plenum, there is no reason not to just replace the valve cover gaskets. Pulling the plenum is half the battle. Its not that hard, its just awkward.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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if you've overtightened the valve cover bolts, you may want to put the valve cover flanges up against a straight edge before putting them back on with new gaskets. If they're not flat, carefully hammer them as flat as possible
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Well, I guess I would do the work my self, but the bolts are all rusted stuck as if someone cemented them in.
I sprayed tons of PB blaster a few weeks ago and again yesterday and let it sit for couple of hours.....NOTHING DOING. also, the screws for the cover of upper manifold r too tight & they got that weird shape in the screw so my head just ate up the hole-shape inside of the screw.
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Torx bit, T20 I believe. Set the bit in there, smack it with a hammer, then try and remove them. They won't come out otherwise, and if you try and use the wrong type of driver you will destroy the screws. If they're already beyond the point where you can remove them, the only thing you can do is drill the heads off and lift the plate off.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
- Oct 2009
- 2878
- Keene NH
- Send PM
Yeah I broke my torx bit mine were so rusted in, even after I lubed them up with some wd40 and let em set over night. If the heads are stripped, use some screw outs, they drill into the head in reverse and "bite" them so you can pull the whole thing out. They are one of those things I wish I had."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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regarding the radiator and cooling system. a few weeks ago, i noticed my rad. was leaking from the sides. I drained system and replaced radiator and coolant lost with 50/50.
i only drove car about 10 miles since radiator was changed and I noticed temp. gague still goes past 1/2 mark. after car on more than 20 minutes and I accelerate or go up a hill BUT when i go downhill the needle falls back down.
I played around with rad cap off , and started car and squeezed rad hoses to let air bubbles out, but that doesn't seem to have worked.
Before, Raditator leaked, the temp gauge was fine. any ideas.....
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