Converting VV top end to 4-barrel

[Brown_Muscle]

So..to bring back and semi hijack an old thread...

I have a 2150 carb on the way, I'd like to keep this as simple as possible. I may keep the MCU connected for now, however I intend to yank everything including the smog shit to neaten everything up.

Nate and gadget posted that I simply need to replace the module (i heard of someone else shorting the one connector and making the DS3 module into a DS2 essentially as well) I'd prefer simply to do either of these, but I wanted to make sure I don't have to do anything crazy with the dizzy like the stop plate...It was just thains late post on this thread that confused me.

[Mercracer]

Back in the day, it was accepted practice to go with the "blue" (color of plastic square where pigtail goes into module) D2 Module for the best performance. The VV uses a "brown" module. The D2 distributor sucks after about 5500 RPMs and sometimes even before as it is prone to misfires. If you are sticking with a 2V carb and low RPMs, it should be fine.

[Brown_Muscle]

Gotcha, no more than 4200 RPM for me! (not that it makes any power at that rpm anyway)

[1987cp]

So..to bring back and semi hijack an old thread...

I have a 2150 carb on the way, I'd like to keep this as simple as possible. I may keep the MCU connected for now, however I intend to yank everything including the smog shit to neaten everything up.

Nate and gadget posted that I simply need to replace the module (i heard of someone else shorting the one connector and making the DS3 module into a DS2 essentially as well) I'd prefer simply to do either of these, but I wanted to make sure I don't have to do anything crazy with the dizzy like the stop plate...It was just thains late post on this thread that confused me.

You could just leave the distributor alone unless you find you're having trouble ... you may want to open it up first, though, to make sure what limit plate slot is in use, and to verify that it's got the heavy advance springs (I think my stock ones came with one heavy and one light advance spring. On the distributor in my old P72 I recall swapping out the springs for the light spring kit you can get from Mr. Gasket).

[P72Ford]

I think the best way to do a 4bbl swap on one of these cars is to keep it looking as OEM as possible, whilst eliminating anything nonessential.

When I did my P72, I didn't take the time to go through all the wiring and everything.

When I recently did my coupe though, I went bullshit. It was an efi car, and I removed every semblence of efi that ever existed in the car. Custom fuel pick-up, new lines, correct computer delete plug in the firewall, any and all unecessary wires skimmed out (not just cut), emissions is nonexistant, etc.

Its the right way to do it. Ultimately, you're probably saying to yourself, "well what if I ever want to go back to stock?" Lets be honest... save and catalog everything you take out; but the chances of you ever going back, are very slim.

I would do a full emissions delete (thermactor, air tubes, solenoids, wiring, etc), delete the MCU, run a DS2 box, with a factory distributor. Get yourself an electric choke VS holley (4160) or an Edelbrock 500-600 cfm carb, delete the EGR, and all the feedback and emissions stuff. You're emissions exempt, so it doesn't really matter. Clean the engine bay right up. Modify the factory air cleaner assembly, and get the TV geometry corrector. In my experience, they have to be modified, but they work. I believe 1:1 is the ratio.

When its all together and running, curve the distributor (you can buy the spring and weight kit from Mr. Gasket, I think) and tune the carb as necessary. You'll end up with unsacrificed driveability, slightly better performance, improved servicability and availability of parts, and if you go with a dichromate finish carb, and the original air cleaner, you'll have a really authentic look.