Carb swapping and such

[moneypit]

Trying to decide what I should do about a fuel system. Should I drop the tank, ditch the electiric pump and run a mechanical pump in the stock location? Should I run a low pressure in-line pump like the Mr. Gasket one found on the shelf at any parts store? Should I keep the stock pump and use a bypass regulator? What's the easiest (read: simplest) setup to use for everyday reliability and less underhood clutter?

What's the best source for ignition? I imagine I can find a duraspark setup off of a '70s pickup in the local u-pull, but if I can't what's the best unit to use?

Also, I've always been told not to reuse lifters with a new cam. I've got Justin's (phayzer5) old flat-tappet cam, but I don't really want to buy new lifters if I don't have to.

GT-40P heads- what's the deal with the spark plug angle? Can I get by using stock-style headers or manifolds, or is there just no way?

Thanks for the input! I need to put this Edelbrock 1406 carb and Performer RPM intake to some use... they've been collecting dust for 2 years now!

[GoodSamaritan]

Trying to decide what I should do about a fuel system. Should I drop the tank, ditch the electiric pump and run a mechanical pump in the stock location? Should I run a low pressure in-line pump like the Mr. Gasket one found on the shelf at any parts store? Should I keep the stock pump and use a bypass regulator? What's the easiest (read: simplest) setup to use for everyday reliability and less underhood clutter?

To run a mechanical fuel pump, you will need the piece that bolts onto the end of the cam, to drive it.

If you go with a low pressure electrical, i believe that some of the older in tank units were low pressure, but there was a second pump mounted on the frame to boost the pressure for the cfi. If you have this setup, it might be as easy as bypassing the external pump.

What's the best source for ignition? I imagine I can find a duraspark setup off of a '70s pickup in the local u-pull, but if I can't what's the best unit to use?

If you want dead reliable and minimal clutter, I might make an alternate suggestion.

https://www.gofastforless.com

This guy has a wiring diagram for the old chrysler electronic ignition system, and a gm hei ignition.
They are cheap durable and will handle a pretty big coil.
The only real drawback is that the chrysler unit has poor dwell control, so they don't work too well at high rpms. Then again with a stock bottom end you probably don't want to spend a lot of time with your engine at those revs anyway. The gm hei unit really needs a heat sink or something, but has better dwell.

I'd also advise a vac advance distributor. Be sure to do your homework and get one with the correct gear.

Also, I've always been told not to reuse lifters with a new cam. I've got Justin's (phayzer5) old flat-tappet cam, but I don't really want to buy new lifters if I don't have to.

Lifters aren't that expensive, I'd put them in while it's apart. Besides are you sure the stock lifters are compatible?

GT-40P heads- what's the deal with the spark plug angle? Can I get by using stock-style headers or manifolds, or is there just no way?

Thanks for the input! I need to put this Edelbrock 1406 carb and Performer RPM intake to some use... they've been collecting dust for 2 years now!

I've not done it myself, but I've heard that you can run shorty plugs and get away with it, but there are headers, that can be clearanced to work pretty simply. I don't recall what they came on, but it hasn't been too long since, someone made a post about theirs here.


On second thought you should do with fuel injection. Send me that carb and intake for proper disposal...

[moneypit]

To run a mechanical fuel pump, you will need the piece that bolts onto the end of the cam, to drive it.

If you go with a low pressure electrical, i believe that some of the older in tank units were low pressure, but there was a second pump mounted on the frame to boost the pressure for the cfi. If you have this setup, it might be as easy as bypassing the external pump.





If you want dead reliable and minimal clutter, I might make an alternate suggestion.

https://www.gofastforless.com

This guy has a wiring diagram for the old chrysler electronic ignition system, and a gm hei ignition.
They are cheap durable and will handle a pretty big coil.
The only real drawback is that the chrysler unit has poor dwell control, so they don't work too well at high rpms. Then again with a stock bottom end you probably don't want to spend a lot of time with your engine at those revs anyway. The gm hei unit really needs a heat sink or something, but has better dwell.

I'd also advise a vac advance distributor. Be sure to do your homework and get one with the correct gear.




Lifters aren't that expensive, I'd put them in while it's apart. Besides are you sure the stock lifters are compatible?



I've not done it myself, but I've heard that you can run shorty plugs and get away with it, but there are headers, that can be clearanced to work pretty simply. I don't recall what they came on, but it hasn't been too long since, someone made a post about theirs here.


On second thought you should do with fuel injection. Send me that carb and intake for proper disposal...

I'm probably just going to stick with Duraspark... I've never had a problem with it and it works well. As for the lifters, I SHOULD have a flat-tappet engine, since it's an '83, but the guy who sold it to me mentioned that the motor had been rebuilt a few years earlier and supposedly bored .030". As far as getting the fuel pupm eccentric for the camshaft, that should be pretty easy to do. I think my stock timing cover has the blockoff plate over the provision for the mechanical pump.

[GoodSamaritan]

If the engine has been rebuilt, it is possible the cam isn't drilled for the eccentric.
Something to consider, before you get too far into the build.

If you have everything you need to run a mechanical pump, I'd do it. I mentioned the others just in case.

[moneypit]

If the engine has been rebuilt, it is possible the cam isn't drilled for the eccentric.
Something to consider, before you get too far into the build.

If you have everything you need to run a mechanical pump, I'd do it. I mentioned the others just in case.

The eccentric bolts on with the same bolt that holds the timing gear on, and just has a tab that sticks in to the hole that the cam's dowel pin lines up to. Besides, I'm running an aftermarket cam anyway. Hell, I might even get lucky enough to find an eccentric already in there. I've heard that some of the older boxes had them in there from the factory.

[gadget73]

88grandmarq used 90 towncar logs with P heads and apparently it works. 90 TC parts bolt to stock exhaust and are drop-in replacements for the iron manifolds you have now.

Lifters are cheap. You really don't want to destroy a cam and lifter set by using old pre-worn lifters on a used cam. Hell, for that matter I wouldn't even recycle a flat tappet cam, unless its at the local scap yard. Cam and lifter sets for flattie motors are 150 bucks or less.

[pantera77]

88grandmarq used 90 towncar logs with P heads and apparently it works. 90 TC parts bolt to stock exhaust and are drop-in replacements for the iron manifolds you have now.

I'm hoping that they fit at least half decently. I'm going to run them on my engine since I can't afford headers and a catted h pipe.

[gadget73]

Look up his thread on the gt40p heads. Its fairly recent. He explained what exactly he did. It may have also involved plug wires with different boots. I don't recall for sure.

[P72Ford]

Lifters are cheap. You really don't want to destroy a cam and lifter set by using old pre-worn lifters on a used cam. Hell, for that matter I wouldn't even recycle a flat tappet cam, unless its at the local scap yard. Cam and lifter sets for flattie motors are 150 bucks or less.

Words of wisdom.

I'd go with a mechanical fuel pump.

Does the CFI ignition have any resemblance to that of a Durasprak system? I know little about CFI... If its based off of DS, like a DS3, or something, it is very easy to convert to DS2. Just buy a blue module (DS3 is a yellow module, DS2 is blue), and plug in the two plugs that fit (one will not).

If it isn't similar to DS to begin with, you could buy a DS distributor (cheap at chain stores), and wire it up (its very simple). But, I believe you can buy a complete GM style HEI for the Ford for a little over $100. Simplest HEI there is, really; an ideal solution if you don't mind using GM style parts.

[gadget73]

84-85 cfi ignition is the same as multiport, TFI module and all. 80-83 cfi has a bastardized duraspark with a crank trigger. Not really what you're after.

[Pesty351]

For the Ign. I would try to find an old points dizzy for dirt cheap which shouldn't be to hard. Then get the pertronix kit. Easiest wiring if you do it right the first time I can hook you up with that. Also I've been using a mech. fuel pump with out any issues with the stock pump still in the tank. Though I do plan on pulling it out when I do the rear end.

[moneypit]

84-85 cfi ignition is the same as multiport, TFI module and all. 80-83 cfi has a bastardized duraspark with a crank trigger. Not really what you're after.

Yep... it's bastardized all right. It's basically got a stripped-down shell of a distributor. Nothing but a shaft and a rotor, really. Also it's got the dumb brown DS box.