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    #1

    gt40's: that much better?

    So my favorite junkyard is overloaded with v8 Exploders and Mountainqueers. Must of them are CFCs, but today I found a few that weren't. Now my question is this, are gt40/gt40p's that much better than e7's? While I was there today, I stole the upper and lower intake + TB off of one of the better looking ones, and was wondering if it would be worth it to go back and get the heads too? I mean I already have must of the crap in the way off. The only reason I ask, is when I rebuild my HO in the next few months, I'm going to have the heads redone as well. I already panned on just redoing the e7's I have laying around, but should I just get the gt40's now? The engine will just be bored 30 over with a stock HO cam, nothing wild. I'm more concerned about reliability then raw power as this is my daily driver.
    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP
    Tags: explorer, GT40, pushrods, timing cover
    #2
    If the price is reasonable, definitely grab them. They do flow significantly better than E7s and have larger valves.

    2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
    1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
    But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

    Comment

      #3
      The P heads will require the specialty headers, but in a stock for stock application, the GT-40 / GT-40P heads will outperform the E7s. If you're already planning to pull and replace the heads, I'd recommend going for the Explorer heads to get some better performance with a stock reliability... just be sure to replace the valve springs with some Comp (or similar) springs while the heads are off.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Nathan in MI View Post
        If the price is reasonable, definitely grab them. They do flow significantly better than E7s and have larger valves.
        Originally posted by Freshmeat View Post
        The P heads will require the specialty headers, but in a stock for stock application, the GT-40 / GT-40P heads will outperform the E7s. If you're already planning to pull and replace the heads, I'd recommend going for the Explorer heads to get some better performance with a stock reliability... just be sure to replace the valve springs with some Comp (or similar) springs while the heads are off.
        How did you say the same thing in 1/3 of the space?
        2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
        1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
        1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

        Comment

          #5
          That was fast! There only $25 a pop, so it's not like their that expensive. And yea I know about the p specific headers. I figure if I have to rebuild the e7's I have now, why not rebuild a head that already outperforms it?
          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

          Comment

            #6
            Exactly, man. The P headers are worth it, although I'd recommend getting them ceramic coated if you can afford it. They make the floorboard HOT.
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Freshmeat View Post
              How did you say the same thing in 1/3 of the space?
              Don't feel bad, I'm just good like that. :p

              Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
              That was fast! There only $25 a pop, so it's not like their that expensive. And yea I know about the p specific headers. I figure if I have to rebuild the e7's I have now, why not rebuild a head that already outperforms it?
              Wow, for $25, grab 'em before someone else does!

              2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
              1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
              But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

              Comment

                #8
                yep, rebuild is gonna cost the same either way, may as well end up with better hardware for your trouble. Grab the intake too, the 96 one is preferred if possible since it allows easy egr hookup.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment

                  #9
                  i wish they were 25 bucks here
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Well, put it this way... with a stock HO in a gutted sedan, I ran 14.80's with race gas and tons of tweaking/tuning. With a 4500lb wagon and a explorer motor (non-p and non stock cam) i ran a 15.02...The wagon isn't tuned very well either.
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      yep, rebuild is gonna cost the same either way, may as well end up with better hardware for your trouble. Grab the intake too, the 96 one is preferred if possible since it allows easy egr hookup.
                      Thain, are you referring to the internal EGR?


                      1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
                      1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
                      1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)

                      Comment

                        #12
                        yessir.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I think I'm needing another set of P heads.....

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Well just got back from the yard, Ryan (SVT98t) and I got them off in a jiffy. (Thanks again for the help man) Total came out to be $60.79. Not to bad if you ask me.
                            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                              yep, rebuild is gonna cost the same either way, may as well end up with better hardware for your trouble. Grab the intake too, the 96 one is preferred if possible since it allows easy egr hookup.
                              It's odd, i've always heard they had external EGR after 96, but the explorer motor i grabbed was out of a 98 and it had internal EGR. I found no less than 10 date stamps or stickers while taking apart the motor that had a 1998 date too.
                              Attached Files


                              1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
                              1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
                              1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)

                              Comment

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