Crank/No Start '88 TC

[Ike Clanton]

Ok boys, place your bets.

Claudine ran fine coming home from work Wednesday night. When I went to leave for work Thursday, I cranked and cranked but didn't get so much as a burp.

Having not owned one of these for many years, what is the MOST LIKELY culprit?

Info bits:

1. Battery good and hot, cranks at normal speed
2. Not even a hint that it wanted to start at any point
3. Heard same series of relay clicks as always, and the fuel pump priming up for about 4 seconds at KOEO as it should
4. Did replace heater core the weekend prior, but did NOT drop the steering column nor do anything more with it than remove the trim (though I suppose it still could be ignition switch related)

I am fairly confident that when I go out to mess with it tomorrow (haven't touched it yet,) I will find no spark.

My main question is that if we assume this to be the case, what is the most likely cause?

[gadget73]

Does it not have spark, or does it not have fuel? Could be a lot of things, but I'd probably guess at a TFI module. See if its got spark, if nothing then the TFI is a good place to start.

[Ike Clanton]

Nope, no spark.

Looking at the (REALLY thin, inadequate) wiring diagrams in a Haynes manual now and developing a test plan...

[camlisonfire]

if you have a timing light then connect it to your plug wires starting with one to see if they are firing. then pop the cap of the shrader valve and see if there is any fuel at the rails. then go from there

[gadget73]

my bet is on a dead TFI module then.

[Ike Clanton]

Does it not have spark, or does it not have fuel? Could be a lot of things, but I'd probably guess at a TFI module.

my bet is on a dead TFI module then.

Winner! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction-I know VWs inside & out, and I knew my old car very well, but I am just now easing back into the FoMoCo thing again.

The coil tested faulty when in the car, but straightened up when it was out, so I went ahead and replaced it, but as I suspected, that didn't get me anywhere.

I then replaced the TFI module and when I hit the key to test my work, the engine started faster and with fewer revolutions than it has since I've owned it.

After buttoning everything back up, I went for a drive and found the car also runs better than it has since I've had it. It had a annoying intermittent miss when in overdive at the lower road speeds that could still use overdrive, but only when barely maintaining speed. Apply more throttle but hold overdrive and it would clear up. I have been reading the forums and it seems like this miss is somewhat common, though sometimes for different reasons. I wish now I hadn't left the new coil on so I'd know if it was the coil or TFI module that cleaned up the running.

One other thing (and I realize I couldn't be the first to have noticed or done this) is that the manual said you have to remove the distributor from the car to replace the module, but you don't. I haven't had time to wash all the crud off the engine's exterior, and I didn't want any falling into the engine when I pulled the distributor. I also didn't have a paint marker to mark anything, though it isn't so important on computer-controlled cars. I just loosened the distributor hold down bolt and moved the tubular alternator bracket arm and turned the distributor to the point I could get the TFI bolts out. Viola!

Both the module and coil were Motorcraft parts, along with the distributor cap and plug wires. Either the TFI was original, or the last time it was replaced the car was still worth putting OE parts on it. (I installed aftermarket parts.) Either way, it looked ancient, though the cap and rotor were all but perfect as far as the traces and whatnot.