got my power steering belt off, can i burn the gears up by driving the car using muscle only?
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it is going to take a toll on the steering column and the steering shafts......they werent meant to turn without power assist........first thing to go will be the rag joint.
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by John Deere Green View PostWhich car you got the PS belt off? Panthers share a belt between the PS, WP, and the alt, so if you lose that one you'd only have battery power, and considering you do burn up a ton of energy with the sparkplugs you really won't be driving much far
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Lots of companies did silly things with V belts. Only so many spots on the crankshaft so you'll find belts driving from accessory to accessory and things like that. GM with their accessory bracket nonsense is really bad for that. It makes the water pumps easy to change, but finding the magic combination of tiny little brackets that go to the exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds, head holes, and wherever else they go can be frustrating.
And yeah, you'll take out the stuff in the steering column. Its also just generally a bitch to steer a power assist box without the pump. If it was a proper manual box you'd be OK with it. Those have a lot less internal spring force and more gear reduction so its actually possible to drive one without having Hulk Hogan's arms.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Originally posted by insomniac391 View Postits a crate engine, the power steering uses the same pulley as the alternator but has its own belt.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostI'd missed this about getting a crate engine. Did you mention in the other thread which one you're getting?
He also said the car is fine to drive as long as there is power steering in the pump cause it should lubricate everything.
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The steering box won't fail, its the stuff between the steering wheel and the box. Its a whole lot harder to steer, so all those parts get stressed a whole lot more. 20 year old rubber rag joints aren't that strong to begin with. Load them up a lot more than normal, and suddenly you've got massive slop in the steering wheel because the rubber came apart.
Why not just get the stock pulley and bracket arrangement that belongs on the car, or the one that belongs on the truck the engine came from? As long as its matched, it doesn't matter all that much what it came from. No need for expensive aftermarket stuff when a trip to the junkyard will get you all you need. 305 and 350 engines are the same for bracket purposes, and there are lots of 305 Caprices and trucks.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Originally posted by insomniac391 View Postsorry I'm wrong, just went to my favorite mechanic in MD and he told me that this is a 350 taken out of a truck with miss matched pulleys from the original car, so I need to get an entirely new pulley system. He said the only company that makes the system i need is March and that it will cost about 300, plus labor brings the total to $905, sound right Scott?
He also said the car is fine to drive as long as there is power steering in the pump cause it should lubricate everything.
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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Originally posted by insomniac391 View PostHe said the only company that makes the system i need is March and that it will cost about 300, plus labor brings the total to $905, sound right Scott?
He also said the car is fine to drive as long as there is power steering in the pump cause it should lubricate everything.
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Also, about the steering column, Thain is right - without the power steering you'll be putting a whole lot more load on these parts than they should be subjected to, and while they were designed to handle that kind of load (in case of emergency situations) that was like 20 years ago, age and mileage do take their toll on the parts - rag joint will likely be weakened by now, also the U-joints wear out, and if you have tilt wheel there's another bunch of stuff waiting to fail on your right there. All this said, can you please take some pictures of what you're working with, and post them here, it's hard to give advice even on patch jobs without knowing for sure what we're staring with - I'll try to at least get your PS going till you have the proper parts sorted out for making everything else work right too.
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