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    Distributor cap musings

    Here's a n00bish question for everyone. What sort of circumstances conspire to cause premature fouling of distributor caps? I don't imagine it's always the same thing. I was just looking at one that I put on just a few months ago, brass terminals, that was clean (not new, but cleaned up slightly and looked acceptable) when I put it on, and now it's positively gross. Greenish corrosion all over the place, and all 8 terminals have big raised black spots like something was arcing very badly against then.

    The cap that I'd had on this engine when it was last run in the Mercury had gotten big black greasy deposits on each terminal. Also had brass terminals, think the brand on that one was Accel. Not sure of the brand on the one on there now, but it has a brass rotor with it as well (previously I'd run aluminum rotors because that's what I could find).

    I've got an OK aluminum-terminal Motorcraft cap I'm going to toss on there for now ... I am planning to get a nice new cap and rotor in the foreseeable future, possibly the ones Summit sells under the Taylor brand (pricier than Accel, but possibly nicer). Will probably get new wires at that time as well.
    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

    #2
    If there's greenish corrosion on the terminals it could mean moisture is getting in there somehow.
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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      #3
      It's has been supidly humid here for the past 67 years (little cheapo meter indoors was measuring 95% several days straight ... outside, we got condensation all over everything whenever the temps dipped below 65!), so I guess that wouldn't be all that surprising.
      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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        #4
        Yeah, I've fixed peoples cars before because they wouldn't start on a dewy morning. Also, those rubber boots for the distributors are for more than show.
        Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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          #5
          Sounds like a lot of moisture in there.... pull the cap adapter off and put a little silcone on the base, and maybe some dialectric grease on the cap to adapter to try and keep some of the moisture out.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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            #6
            Moisture, coupled with the spark jumping from rotor to terminal makes ozone, which is somewhat corrosive. We have ozone problems at work when its real humid too.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              Well, that sounds nearly unanimous! Should be pretty easy to address, too.

              What about the vent in the top of the cap? I take it that's not normally a significant source of moisture?
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                #8
                That's a solution to help vent out the moisture, whether it works or not I'm not sure. I've often wondered if you could mount a moisture pack somewhere in the dizzy to help prevent this.

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                  #9
                  Hey, now there's an interesting idea. Like those little dessicant packs that come in shoes and pill containers. Might actually be room to mount one to the cap adapter .... huh. You'd have to change the dessicant from time to time, but it'd beat having the cap terminals get all nasty and disgusting.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #10
                    it's the poor quality of the metals if you ask me.....i try to use brass terminal caps whenever possible........at least you can clean those a few times

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                      #11
                      All my trashed caps have been brass.
                      2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                        #12
                        Was there enough metal left to sand the terminals clean though? Mine get nasty but I can generally scrape the crust off several times before the terminal really gets pitted too deep to work right.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm going to check into that. That particular cap is rather nice - looks like a lot more material in the terminals than in the cheap Accel variety. It looks like there should be, though for now I've swapped on an old aluminum-terminaled cap. Incidentally, today I scrounged up, cleaned, and installed one of the old rubber distributor boots I had laying around.
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I love that rubber Ford stamped distributor cover that I found in the trunk when I bought the car. I cleaned the distributor up and put the cover on then, and I periodically check underneath it just for the hell of it and it's still pretty spotless.
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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