Ok so ive had my car for a couple of weeks now and Ive found out that I need new valve cover gaskets because oil is leaking from them. Is there anything elseI should change while the intake is taken off and such. Also today the keyhole on the drivers side started malfunctioning. It seems as if the cover in the keyhole has broken off and gotten in the way. Any ideas on how 2 fix this. The windows in the back wont let down. But you can hear the motor trying to let them down. Also the left side flashers won't flash. They cut on but they dont flash. Lastly the steering wheel whines when I turn the wheel.
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the lights not flashing means one is probably dead. check ALL the lights, as some (including the tail lights) have more than one bulb where it looks like it'd be single.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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I'd recommend that you use Felpro Perma-Dry gaskets for the valve covers, they are blue silicone rubber (and not cork) and they have brass bushings in them so you really cannot overtighten the bolts and squeeze the gaskets out. Also, if you can, go to a junkyard and grab a pair of aluminum Mark VII valve covers (or buy a pair from a Mustang site like Corral.net) as they seal much better than factory stamped steel units.
Other upgrades/fixes while intake is off - change the rubber hoses for the heater core, particularly those S-shaped ones between the engine and the firewall, as they are near impossible to get to with the engine fully assembled, and they also like blowing up at high revvs. Also inspect and repair/replace all vacuum lines and hoses under the intake. May wanna swap out the coolant hoses for the throttle body, or better yet just yank them out entirely and run one from the heater steel tube on the passenger side of the engine to the 1/4" barb fitting on the driver side, thus completely bypassing the throttle body.
About the lock keyhole, I know they can be taken apart but I'm pretty sure you'll have to pull the door panel for this - there should be a clip on the inside of the door sheetmetal, pull that and the lock cylinder should fall right out, then you can go medieval with it.
Rear window motors - there are three plastic dowel pins inside the gear assembly at the end of the motors, those are known to go bad with age and use. You'll need to pull the door panels and likely drill three holes in the door sheetmetal to get to the bolts holding the motors, it's a pretty routine thing for these cars actually.
The flashers issue may be associated with worn out wiring or a loose connection somewhere in the harnesses, however I have no suggestions on particular locations to check.
The steering wheel - it is not it that is whining, it is the power steering pump, it's known as a "ford moan" and as you can probably figure out it's pretty typical for older Fords. Make sure you have enough fluid in there, used the marks on the pump reservoir cap to judge for that. Pay attention to the color of the fluid tho - if you see dark red or red-brownish that's transmission fluid in there (which is actually what should be there as per Ford specs), so add more ATF and not power steering fluid.
Antenna mast - do you have a power antenna, or a full-length stationary one? The stationaries seem to have a much better radio signal reception than the telescoping ones, and they are also cheaper so they may be something to consider. Let me know if you want one, and what kind (stationary or telescopic), I'm pretty sure we either have one on the parts car, or we can get one from the U-Pull-It yard this week.
Last, if you ever have a way up to PA, you're more than welcome to swing by our shop and we can look at the car and see what else may need done whether as a fix or as preventive maintenanceLast edited by Guest; 08-12-2009, 08:52 PM.
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Replace the PCV components while the upper intake is off. Theres a valve, a rubber grommet, and a screen down in a hole in the lower intake. Its doable with the upper in place, but its really hard to see unless you know where it is. Its cake with the upper off tho.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I second the PCV shit. I changed the valve, but neglected to change the screen, and it bit me in the ass, I had a great leak from the back of the motor due to a clogged pcv screen.
Your best bet for the antenna mast would be the junkyard. Is it a power antenna or just a fixed antenna?Last edited by 86VickyLX; 08-12-2009, 09:27 PM.
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