Carbed 351 HELP please!!!!

[bubbaking]

Alright I know it has been a long time since I have posted on here, mainly because the vic is gone. However I still have the motor and I am working on putting it in another car and have a few questions on things that I can not remember to save my ass. Sorry this is going to be so long but I really need help asap because this car has been down for to long and I am so close to gettting it done. Thanks.... BTW, the engine is BONE STOCK from oil pan to carb (varible ventura) minus the smog (air pump and EGR) and ac.

-First, for my oil pressure gauge can I use the port that is on the driver side of the block towards the back that just has a pipe plug in it or what is that for?

-Couple coolant line ?'s. I have a spot on the thermostat housing for a coolant line, where does that line go? On the intake there is a part sticking up that has a couple pieces branching off. One is threaded and the other one a line will slip over, where does that line go? It had a sensor screwed into the top of it.

-I have a vac diagram but cant make heads of tails of it. Everything looks like it goes to a "vacuum control valve" wft? Can someone just say "line from dist. goes to ........" and so on and so forth. I have vac connections on the dizzy, a "tree" coming off the rear of the intake (one I belive is the main vac, with two others coming off it), two ports coming off the intake below the carb, and a port threaded into the intake towards the front of the intake, off center to the driver side of the dizzy. Along with the vac connections on the carb.

-Since I dont have a.c. and what not can I run the main vac off the intake directly to the brake boost or does the tree on the firewall also regulate it some how? Currently the only ports on that tree being used is the engine vac, ac (deleted) and brake boost.

-Finally,with the fuel pump I have three line connections. I am assuming two on the pump are for from the tank and return to the tank and the other is to the carb. Correct? If so which is which? One is threaded and other two are where tubing can slip over.

Sorry for all the dumb questions but I cant seem to find the answers anywhere. Thanks for any and all help. I gotta get this back on the road asap.

[Nathan in MI]

-First, for my oil pressure gauge can I use the port that is on the driver side of the block towards the back that just has a pipe plug in it or what is that for?

I think what you're seeing there is a block drain for the water jacket, which wouldn't be the best place to get an oil pressure reading. You'll want to tap into it where the sender is for the warning light, which will be at the front of the block on the driver's side, just above the fuel pump. You can either remove the sender and replace it with your line (or your sender if you're using an electric gauge), or you can get a brass tee fitting and keep both in there. I like having both so the light will still work.

-Couple coolant line ?'s. I have a spot on the thermostat housing for a coolant line, where does that line go?

Sounds like you're talking about the bypass. That's the short little L-shaped hose that connects between the thermostat housing and the water pump.

On the intake there is a part sticking up that has a couple pieces branching off. One is threaded and the other one a line will slip over, where does that line go? It had a sensor screwed into the top of it.

The threaded branches are for sensors. Can't remember their exact function, except to say that they give a signal when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. One of them sends the computer into closed loop, if I recall correctly. The piece where you can slip a hose on is for one of the heater hoses.

-I have a vac diagram but cant make heads of tails of it. Everything looks like it goes to a "vacuum control valve" wft? Can someone just say "line from dist. goes to ........" and so on and so forth. I have vac connections on the dizzy, a "tree" coming off the rear of the intake (one I belive is the main vac, with two others coming off it), two ports coming off the intake below the carb, and a port threaded into the intake towards the front of the intake, off center to the driver side of the dizzy. Along with the vac connections on the carb.

Bit of a broad question, but I can answer what I remember. The vacuum line from the distributor goes to a switch on the thermostat housing, which in turn connects to a vacuum source. I can't recall off hand whether it was ported vacuum or manifold, but your vacuum diagram should show that, provided you can figure out what it all means.

One of the two vacuum ports below the carb is for the PCV valve. The other may be for the vacuum advance (i.e., the distributor), but don't quote me on that.

-Since I dont have a.c. and what not can I run the main vac off the intake directly to the brake boost or does the tree on the firewall also regulate it some how? Currently the only ports on that tree being used is the engine vac, ac (deleted) and brake boost.

I'm not sure I entirely understand the question, but the vacuum tree doesn't regulate the vacuum in anyway. It's just a manifold.

-Finally,with the fuel pump I have three line connections. I am assuming two on the pump are for from the tank and return to the tank and the other is to the carb. Correct? If so which is which? One is threaded and other two are where tubing can slip over.

The threaded port supplies the carburetor via the hard steel line. The other two are the supply and return lines, and I believe you'll find one is larger than the other. If I'm remembering right, the supply should fit 5/16" hose and the return should fit 1/4".

Another thing you might do is sift through the pictures in my Readers' Rides thread, and look for the pictures of the engine bay. It won't show everything, but it may help jog your memory in a few places.

Good luck!

[bubbaking]

Thank you so much for the help. As soon as I read the fuel pump answer I was like face meet hand.

[bubbaking]

Let me see if I can clear up any ?'s that I may still have, again thanks so much that really helps.

I think what you're seeing there is a block drain for the water jacket, which wouldn't be the best place to get an oil pressure reading. You'll want to tap into it where the sender is for the warning light, which will be at the front of the block on the driver's side, just above the fuel pump. You can either remove the sender and replace it with your line (or your sender if you're using an electric gauge), or you can get a brass tee fitting and keep both in there. I like having both so the light will still work.

Makes sense, face meet palm. Happen to know off hand what size socket the stock pressure sensor takes? I have a mechanical gauge that is going in and not really worried about the light. Again this motor is going into a different car (fox body stang).


Sounds like you're talking about the bypass. That's the short little L-shaped hose that connects between the thermostat housing and the water pump.

So I run a section of hose from there to the which port on the pump?


The threaded branches are for sensors. Can't remember their exact function, except to say that they give a signal when the coolant reaches a certain temperature. One of them sends the computer into closed loop, if I recall correctly. The piece where you can slip a hose on is for one of the heater hoses.

Ok, so can I just plug them since I have no computer in the car (again transplant). The port makes sense. Happen to know if it is going to or from the core?


Bit of a broad question, but I can answer what I remember. The vacuum line from the distributor goes to a switch on the thermostat housing, which in turn connects to a vacuum source. I can't recall off hand whether it was ported vacuum or manifold, but your vacuum diagram should show that, provided you can figure out what it all means.

I will take another look at the vacuum diagram and try to figure it out. It just looked like everything went to "vacuum control valves" whatever they are.


One of the two vacuum ports below the carb is for the PCV valve. The other may be for the vacuum advance (i.e., the distributor), but don't quote me on that.

So since I am running breathers and no pcv I can cap the one for the pcv and run the other one to where it needs to be?


I'm not sure I entirely understand the question, but the vacuum tree doesn't regulate the vacuum in anyway. It's just a manifold.

On the tree it has ports for the following: main vac, ac, something else that is already capped, and brake boost. I didnt see any point and keeping more junk on the firewall if it is not needed and was wondering if I can run the main vac off the engine directly to the brake boost or if it would hurt anything.

The threaded port supplies the carburetor via the hard steel line. The other two are the supply and return lines, and I believe you'll find one is larger than the other. If I'm remembering right, the supply should fit 5/16" hose and the return should fit 1/4".

Again face meet palm. Make 138% sense. I feel rather dumb now. Mental fart I guess.


Another thing you might do is sift through the pictures in my Readers' Rides thread, and look for the pictures of the engine bay. It won't show everything, but it may help jog your memory in a few places.

Will do.


Good luck!

[Nathan in MI]

Makes sense, face meet palm. Happen to know off hand what size socket the stock pressure sensor takes? I have a mechanical gauge that is going in and not really worried about the light. Again this motor is going into a different car (fox body stang).

I've actually got a special socket that's made for removing oil pressure sensors. They're kind of oddly shaped. You might be able to grab it with a big pair of channelocks, otherwise you can probably buy the socket you need at your local auto parts store fairly cheaply.

So I run a section of hose from there to the which port on the pump?

It'll be the one closest to the center on top. When you buy the bypass hose, it should be fairly obvious since it's molded to the correct shape.

Ok, so can I just plug them since I have no computer in the car (again transplant). The port makes sense. Happen to know if it is going to or from the core?

If you've eliminated all the computer controls, you're probably okay to remove those. I'm not 110% certain than none of them is involved with the Duraspark box, but I don't think so. The heater hose from the intake manifold goes to the driver's side port on the core. Not sure if that's to or from, but that's where it needs to be.

I will take another look at the vacuum diagram and try to figure it out. It just looked like everything went to "vacuum control valves" whatever they are.

Yeah, sorry I can't be of more help there, but there's 700 miles between me and my EVTM at the moment.

So since I am running breathers and no pcv I can cap the one for the pcv and run the other one to where it needs to be?

Should be safe, yes. I personally wouldn't recommend running without the PCV valve as it helps to pull a lot of contaminants out of the oil, thereby improving engine life, but it's your choice.

On the tree it has ports for the following: main vac, ac, something else that is already capped, and brake boost. I didnt see any point and keeping more junk on the firewall if it is not needed and was wondering if I can run the main vac off the engine directly to the brake boost or if it would hurt anything.

If you're not running any HVAC stuff at all, then yes, you can just plug the brake booster hose into it and nothing else. If you have anything else that needs vacuum, obviously it will need to be plugged in, but not having it plugged in won't hurt anything (other than to say that whatever it is that needs vacuum won't work without it, but I'm sure you know that ).

Again, check out the pictures in my RR thread; I think they'll be of some help to you. Good luck, and if you have any more questions, I'll do my best to dredge up the answers from my quickly fading memory.

[bubbaking]

Thanks a million. Payday I am going to pick up new coolant lines and some vacuum line and see if I can not figure out this vacuum mess. Again, after reading some of them answers it was like "duh dumbass could it be any more obvious" but hey some times the most obvious things are overlooked. Thanks again.

[Nathan in MI]

I know the feeling all too well. Glad I could help, and again, good luck!

[bubbaking]

Here are pics of the intake and carb it that would help anyone any better. http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c286/bubbaking69/ The carb is getting rebuilt before it goes on the car. Just trying to get everything plumbed up so when the kit gets here I can rebuild it, throw it on and be done. Thanks again.

[1987cp]

On that coolant port on the top of the intake, just get a straight fitting without the extra ports. On one car I got fancy and used a 90 degree street elbow to point the outlet in a more convenient direction.

Why in particular are you retaining the VV carb? I'm told they're decent when working right, but if you're looking at getting rid of superfluous electrical senders, and keeping an electronically-controled carburetor, that seems like asking for trouble. A Holley 2130 or Motorcraft 2150 would make your life a lot easier if you really want to stay two-barrel.

[bubbaking]

Actually I just got an email this evening from a guy wanting to sell a Holley so guess what......she is going to be getting that instead and making things ALOT simpler (hopefully). The main reason I was holding on to it is because cash flow. I eventually want to get a four barrel and put on her but gotta get the money right first.