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    #46
    What bolts are you jumping?!

    Do this! Battery Positive to starter solenoid on fender (like factory), other large cable from solenoid on fender to positive terminal on solenoid on starter. Run the small wire that was originally on solenoid on fender (S Terminal) to the small terminal on the solenoid on the starter.

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      #47
      But the whine of the old school starters sound so delightful.
      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
      1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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        #48
        Technically, yes you can jump the connections and use the starter relay to carry the whole load. The reason you should not do this and actually wire it up like Ford did is because the new starters pull more current, and the relay wasn't designed to handle the extra load. Give it enough time, and the relay on the fender will weld itself together. Just wire it up the correct way, its not that hard. Its as much effort to do it the wrong way as it is to wire it the correct way.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #49
          Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
          Do this! Battery Positive to starter solenoid on fender (like factory), other large cable from solenoid on fender to positive terminal on solenoid on starter. Run the small wire that was originally on solenoid on fender (S Terminal) to the small terminal on the solenoid on the starter.
          no, you leave the S terminal wire on the fender where it was. The fender relay operates and throws the solenoid on the small starter, which makes the starter go.


          To do this correctly, you add one wire and move one wire. No wires are removed from the starter relay. The original starter cable moves to the constant + side of the relay. The new wire goes from the switched side of the relay to the S terminal on the new starter. Thats it. Nothing more complex than this, no jumpers, no splicing, no removing of any connections, etc.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #50
            Exactly what Thain said. Do it that way so no other components fry. The new wire ran from the original starter wire position on the starter solenoid (aka relay on fender) can be 16 gauge or so because all that is doing is relaying the signal for the solenoid in the new mini starter to suck power from the constant HOT on the starter solenoid on the fender.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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              #51
              Yep - best to wire it the factory way.
              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
              sigpic
              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                #52
                So are you guys saying just to basically bypass the fender mounted relay (besides using it to tell the solenoid on the starter to wake up)? Because from the factory my 91 uses both the relay on the fender, and the solenoid on the starter. Always seemed like overkill to me.
                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                Comment


                  #53
                  OK, I'll make it look like a 91 and it should work. Sounds like a plan to me.
                  89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                    So are you guys saying just to basically bypass the fender mounted relay (besides using it to tell the solenoid on the starter to wake up)? Because from the factory my 91 uses both the relay on the fender, and the solenoid on the starter. Always seemed like overkill to me.
                    You are sort of 'bypassing' it by indirectly wiring the fat cable right to the battery and changing the fender solenoid's function from high-amp 'crank' delivery to a 'trigger' function like you said. It is a bit overkill, and could be replaced with a normal relay (which I might do) but they would have had to re-engineer the car's power supply (which Dave and I have done) to do it, in lieu of a total model change in '91 - '92.
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Could anyone give an explanation as to why these new starters are better? I know my car starts quicker and it seems much more effortless (car doesn't seem to vibrate as much while the drive is grabbing the flywheel) but don't really know why. Or why it's smaller and lighter.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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                        #56
                        it's (partly) in the name:Gear reduction

                        Imagine your car engine is the starter motor's actual electric motor. The older starters are like trying to start in 3rd gear, the gear that grabs on the flywheel is spinning once for every rotation of the motor itself.

                        These smaller starters use gear reduction like in a transmission, so it's more like trying to start in 1st gear. The gear touching the flywheel might only spin once for every 5 spins of the motor, just like the driveshaft on your car only spins once for every several rotations of the engine when in 1st gear.

                        Because of the increased mechanical advantage (leverage, if you will), this means you can use a smaller/less powerful electric motor, just like you'd need a smaller engine to acheive the same acceleration from a stop in first than you would if you were starting in 3rd gear. I'd imagine that they still give you a powerful enough motor that it exerts more actual force on the flywheel than the older non-gear reduction starters.

                        The end result is that a smaller motor can be used while still providing quicker spinning of the flywheel.

                        I may be leaving out some details that are panther-specific, but that's the general advantage you get when going gear-reduction.

                        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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                          #57
                          Sweet. I figured as much. What's the PM in PMGR?
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Permanent magnet probably.

                            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                            Originally posted by dmccaig
                            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                              #59
                              yeah, permanant magnet. Basically means its got regular magnets inside to create the magnetic field instead of coils of wire. The rotor still has coils of wire, but the fixed shell around the rotor does not.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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