Well I'm tired of how my car runs with the CFI on it, so I'm swappin to a carb. I have a 500 cfm 2 barrel carb for it. Picking up a Dura spark distributor today. I have a dura spark box, a fuel pressure regulator, pressure guage, and return line setup I'm using. I'm just using the stock intank fuel pump. I think that's about all I'll need. I'll take pics of the whole swap. Anything you guys think I'm missing?
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Well I'm using the "T" method. The T is screwed into the bottom of the pressure regulator. I don't know how well it will work yet, but I should be able to get it to run 5-6 psi to the carb. I have the regulator and T mounted on a plate that will be held on with the rear nuts that hold the carb down. I got the "T" idea from readin one of your threads. And I PMed someone that has use it. But he thought it was about 7 psi. So that's why I'm runnin the regulatorsigpic
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Is this a return style regulator, or a dead-head regulator? The right way to do this is with a return type, which has 3 line. In, return, and out to carb. trying to use a deadhead on this on the fuel pump side will probably kill the pump. You might be able to get away with it using a T to connect the stock supply to the return, and use the deadhead between the T and the carb but i'd suspect regulation would be spotty at best.
When you de-CFI it, pull the whole wiring harness as a unit. It does come out of there relatively easily, and it looks a hell of a lot better than hacking bits and pieces of it out of your way. Once thats done, you'll have a lone connector up on the driver's side fender that has all the wiring you'll need. It has wiring back to the fuel pump and the ignition +. You'll need to wire in your own fuel pump relay, or pull those pins out of the stock harness and power it directly from key + instead of the ECM, but thats not all that major. Another thing to be aware of, you will lose ignition + when cranking, so you need to use the I terminal on the starter relay so it has spark all the time.
What exactly is wrong with how the car runs? Could be a timing chain, and a carb swap isn't gonna fix that. Usually the random hitching and bucking crap is a chain. A carb may cover that up, but the CFI cars had a plastic toothed chain, and when it goes its a mess. See Bowman's "how to bend pushrods" thread.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Right now it runs good most of the time. I fixed some of the problems I was having with a TPS. But this winter it would be warming up, and it would just shut off. It would fire right back up. Also sometimes one injector or the other would just stop workin. Shut the car off smack the top of them with screw driver handle and it would work just fine. it has 120,000 miles on it now so I was going to change out the timming chain soon. The stock stuff gets sloppy fast. I bought a Cloyes(sp?) Double roller for it already.sigpic
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On my old stang I just bought a cheapie carb specific inline electric fuel pump from autozone for like $20 I think, and it put out right at 7 psi. Just a thought for what its worth.
'90 LX 5.0 mustang
Big plans
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Check the connector at the CFI unit itself, they would get flaky at times. The random cutting out sounds like a bad connection at the fuel pump or ECM relay, or a bad relay. Could also be a bad ignition switch.
It sounds like you're not particularly interested in fixing that crap, but at least be sure its not the ignition switch before you change stuff. The switches are known to fail, causing all sorts of bs problems, up to and including car fires.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Well I got the swap done about an hour and a half ago. Most of it anyways. I need to go pickup a new air cleaner, and decide if I want to run a relay for the fuel pump. My regulator setup works, and I have it set about 5.5 psi. I will post up some pics later, as I am havin troubles doin it with my blackberry.sigpic
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I'd relay the pump. Running it direct off the ignition switch probably not the best idea. Those things are a bit overloaded as it is.
So how does it run?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Well I got it all done now. But I'm not 100% sure how I should hook up the TV rod. I hooked up to the kick down bracket on the carb,took it for a test drive and. Even at its max setting it shifts earlier than I like. At WOT it shift just like it did with the CFI.
I'll post up some pics when I get to the house tomorrow.sigpic
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